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as too grown-up for a big kid like Batali. The dining room—with its sweeping staircase, formal decor, and live tinkling from a baby grand—has the feel of an opulent hotel lobby. But Del Posto prevailed and is now regarded as one of the most consistently dazzling special-occasion spots in a neighborhood overrun with overpriced eateries—and recently earned the distinction of being the only New York Times four-star-rated Italian restaurant. A partnership with TV chef Lidia Bastianich, the restaurant offers pitch-perfect risotto made fresh to order for two people or more (and served in the oversize pan) and big shareable roast hunks of meat (veal chops), as well as ethereal pastas—all with old-world table-side service. For a little taste of the experience, come for a cocktail and sample the bargain bar menu. | 85 10th Ave., between 15th and 16th Sts., Meatpacking District | 10004-2436 | 212/497–8090 | www.delposto.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch Tues.–Sat. | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

Pastis.

$$$ | BISTRO | A trendy spin-off of Balthazar in SoHo, Pastis looks like it was shipped in, tile by nicotine-stained tile, from Pigalle. At night, throngs of whippet-thin cell-phone-slinging boys and girls gather at the bar up front to sip martinis and be seen. French favorites are front and center, including toothsome steak frites with béarnaise, mussels steamed in Pernod, and tasty apple tartlet with phyllo crust. | 9 9th Ave., at Little W. 12th St., Meatpacking District | 10014-1203 | 212/929–4844 | www.pastisny.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

Scarpetta.

$$$ | ITALIAN | Chef Scott Conant left L’Impero and Alto to open Scarpetta, a critical darling since day one, adjacent to the glitz of the Meatpacking District. Walk past the bar into the polished dining room, where orange belts loop around mirrors and a retractable roof ushers in natural light. For a rousing start, try the creamy, rich polenta and mushrooms before enjoying one of the house-made pastas, like the al dente tagliatelle laced with strands of tender lamb ragout or his signature capretto (baby goat). Save room for dessert: the Amadei chcocolate cake with burnt-caramel gelato brings à la mode to a whole new level. | 355 W. 14th St., at 9th Ave., Meatpacking District | 10014 | 212/691–0555 | www.scarpettanyc.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

Spice Market.

$$$ | ASIAN | This playground for New York’s elite is set in a cavernous space amid embroidered curtains and artifacts from Burma, India, and Malaysia. Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s playful takes on Southeast Asian street food will keep you asking the waiters for information: what exactly was in that? Sometimes the playfulness works, sometimes it doesn’t, but don’t miss the steamed lobster with garlic, ginger, and dried chili, or the squid salad with papaya and cashews. | 403 W. 13th St., at 9th Ave., Meatpacking District | 10009-3421 | 212/675–2322 | www.jean-georges.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

The Standard Grill.

$$$ | AMERICAN | Hotelier Andre Balazs has created an instant scene for celebs, fashion-industry insiders, and aspirational common folk, all who cluster at this buzzy restaurant inside his new Standard Hotel. In warm weather the spacious outdoor seating area is a great place to watch the new High Line park and sample a strawberry Pimm’s cup or Penny Drop. The indoor bar is low-lighted and sexy, with a raw bar and charcuterie station that works on overdrive to put out plates of oysters and Italian cured meats for the two dining rooms—the more casual one in front, with wainscoted walls and views of Washington Street, and the larger room in the back, with a floor whimsically made up of thousands of glittering copper pennies. Chef Dan Silverman’s food is comfort-luxe, with dishes like roast chicken for two in a cast-iron skillet and delicious moist trout with a currant-and–pine nut relish. For dessert, there’s a nearly obscene chocolate