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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [201]

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mousse that comes with four silicone spatulas in lieu of spoons. A late-night menu is offered until 4 am. | 848 Washington St., between Little W. 12th and 13th Sts., Meatpacking District | 10014 | 212/645–4100 | www.thestandardgrill.com| Subway: A, C, E to 14th St./Broadway, L to 14th St./8th Ave.

WEST VILLAGE

August.

$$ | EUROPEAN | Rustic simplicity is the unifying theme at this bustling West Village eatery. A wood-burning oven in the dining room turns out regional European dishes like tarte flambé; an Alsatian flat bread topped with onion, bacon, and crème fraîche; and Sicilian orata, a meaty white fish grilled whole and doused with citrus, olive oil, and fresh herbs. Wood-planed floors and an arched cork ceiling envelop the busy 40-seat dining room. For a quieter meal, ask for a table in the glass-enclosed 15-seat atrium in back. | 359 Bleecker St., at Charles St., West Village | 10014-2624 | 212/929–8727 | www.augustny.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St.

Barbuto.

$$ | ITALIAN | In this structural, airy space you’ll be facing either the kitchen or the quiet street outside. The Italian bistro food depends deeply on fresh seasonal ingredients, so the menu changes daily. Chef Jonathan Waxman specializes in rustic preparations like house-made duck sausage with creamy polenta, red-wine-braised short ribs, and pasta carbonara. Waxman’s acclaimed roasted chicken is usually on the menu in one form or another. | 775 Washington St., between Jane and W. 12th Sts., West Village | 10014-1748 | 212/924–9700 | www.barbutonyc.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: A, C, E, to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.; 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.

Commerce.

$$$ | NEW AMERICAN | This former speakeasy harks back to days gone by with its Diego Rivera–style murals, vintage sconces, and restored subway tiles. The young crowd comes not only for the decor, but to taste Chef Harold Moore’s seasonal cuisine. Appetizers range from a red cabbage, apple, and pecan salad to yuzu-marinated hamachi ceviche. The entrées are just as vibrant: bright, sweet peas offset pristine halibut, and the shareable roast chicken, presented table-side, is served with foie-gras bread stuffing. Brunch shows the influence of Israeli-born chef Snir Eng-Sela, who stacks scrambled eggs and hummus atop a pillowy pita, and serves a mean shakshuka—baked eggs nestled in a pepper, onion, and tomato sauce. The smart, nimble waitstaff constantly replenishes your breadbasket with warm baguettes and brioche, and steers you toward the dainty pineapple cheesecake with cilantro sorbet for a sweet ending. For a quieter meal, choose one of the booths near the bar. | 50 Commerce St., West Village | 10014 | 212/524–2301 | www.commercerestaurant.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St.

dell’anima.

$$ | ITALIAN | Lines snake out the door of this neighborhood favorite. Check out the open kitchen, where the stylish crowd converges to watch chefs prepare authentic Italian dishes like simple arugula salad or a bowl of pasta alla carbonara with speck (smoked and cured pork), egg, and pecorino. The signature pollo al diavolo (spicy chicken) with broccoli rabe, garlic, and chili is seared with enough smoke and heat for all seasons. If you can’t get a table, head to the 10-seat bar and try one of the restaurant’s 400 wines or signature cocktails. Stop in for lunch daily, brunch on weekends, or Anfora, their wine bar next door, for an after-dinner drink. | 38 8th Ave., at Jane St., West Village | 10014-1803 | 212/366–6633 | www.dellanima.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch weekends | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

Do Hwa.

$$ | KOREAN | If anyone in New York is responsible for making Korean food cool and user-friendly, it is the mother-daughter team behind this perennially popular restaurant and its East Village sister, Dok Suni’s. Jenny Kwak and her mother, Myung Ja, serve home cooking in the form of kalbi jim (braised short ribs), bibimbop (a spicy, mix-it-yourself

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