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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [202]

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vegetable-and-rice dish), and other favorites that may not be as pungent as they are in Little Korea but are satisfying nevertheless. | 55 Carmine St., between Bedford St. and 7th Ave., West Village | 10014-4305 | 212/414–1224 | www.dohwanyc.com | AE, D, MC, V | No lunch weekends | Subway: 1 to Houston St.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St.

Fodor’s Choice | Fatty Crab.

$ | MALAYSIAN | This rustic Malaysian cantina showcases the exciting cuisine of chef Zak Pelaccio, who spent years cooking at famous French restaurants before escaping to Southeast Asia for a year, where he fell in love with the flavors of the region. Start with the addictive pickled watermelon and crispy pork salad, an improbable combination that’s both refreshing and decadent. The can’t-miss signature dish is chili crab—cracked Dungeness crab in a pool of rich, spicy chili sauce, served with bread for dipping. It’s messy for sure, but worth rolling up your sleeves for. Friday and Saturday the kitchen is open until 2 am. | 643 Hudson St., between Gansevoort and Horatio Sts., West Village | 10014-1623 | 212/352–3590 | www.fattycrab.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

’ino.

$ | ITALIAN | ’Ino’s the kind of place you want in every neighborhood, but the West Village is the lucky winner here. Every inch of space is economized in this cozy, brick-lined eatery, where the chefs turn out an astonishing variety of fresh bruschetta, tramezzini (soft-bread sandwiches), and panini—not to mention soups and salad—from a tiny, well-organized kitchen. Grab a newspaper from the ledge and sit at one of the bar seats to sample a great selection of Italian wines by the glass. Everything’s delicious, but the truffled egg toast, available for brunch or anytime with an oozing yolk and gooey fontina cheese, is the menu’s star attraction. | 21 Bedford St., between Downing and W. Houston Sts., West Village | 10014 | 212/989–5769 | www.inotecanyc.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, MC, V | Subway: A, B C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St.; 1 to Varick St.

The Little Owl.

$$ | NEW AMERICAN | This tiny neighborhood joint, with seating for 28 people, is exceptionally eager to please. The menu is congruently small, which actually makes it easier to decide what you want. And what you want are the pork-veal-beef-pecorino-cheese meatball “sliders” or miniburgers. The unusually juicy pork loin chop, served with Parmesan butter beans and wild dandelion greens, is gigantic, and hugely satisfying. Raspberry-filled beignets, served with a ramekin of warm Nutella, are otherworldly. | 90 Bedford St., at Grove St., West Village | 10014-3764 | 212/741–4695 | www.thelittleowlnyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St.

Mexicana Mama.

$ | MEXICAN | This colorful—and very popular—space serves vividly flavored fare. The kitchen is serious enough to create four different salsas daily, including a rotating “special salsa” that incorporates an authentic Mexican chili. Several dishes come with your choice of salsa and filling. The tomato-habanero salsa is simply unforgettable; cream tames the habaneros, but only slightly. Three chili-roasted pork tacos are also filled with piquant Chihuahua cheese and black beans, and served over Mexican rice and avocado cubes. Quesadillas are made with fresh corn tortillas (for a change!), filled with that melted Chihuahua cheese and your choice of chicken, barbacoa beef, chicken mole, or a daily special vegetable filling. For dessert, look no further than the eggy flan in flavors like caramel or cinnamon. | 525 Hudson St., near Charles St., West Village | 10014-2607 | 212/924–4119 | No credit cards | Subway: 1 to Christopher St./Sheridan Sq.; A, B, C, D, E, F, M to W. 4th St. | Closed Mon.

Minetta Tavern.

$$$ | NEW AMERICAN | By converting a moribund 80-year-old Italian restaurant into a cozy hot spot, restaurateur Keith McNally created another hit. Try early and often to score reservations and sample creations like buttery trout meuni

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