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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [221]

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Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.

Fodor’s Choice | Candle 79.

$$ | VEGETARIAN | The Upper East Side may seem like an unlikely place for gourmet vegan fare, but the people behind Candle 79 have lighted upon a formula that would work in any neighborhood. The elegant, bi-level space, done up in warm, autumnal tones with touches of wood and rich fabric, is far from the health-food stereotype. Try for a second-floor table overlooking the street, and refresh yourself with a house-made elixir made with fresh grated ginger, agave nectar, and lime that will forever convert you from the canned alternative. Appetizers like rice balls with tempeh bacon may sound like hippie throwbacks, but they taste more like well-executed trattoria fare. Signature dishes include the seitan piccata, which replaces the usual protein with a vegetarian substitute and is so well made and well seasoned that you would never miss the meat. Salads, soups, desserts, and entrées are all stunningly fresh and made with local, organic, seasonal produce. There’s also an impressive list of organic wines and sakes. | 154 E. 79th St., at Lexington Ave., Upper East Side | 10075 | 212/537–7179 | www.candle79.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: 6 to 77th St./Lexington Ave.

Cascabel Taqueria.

$ | MEXICAN | One of New York’s best-rated taqueria’s resides in an unexpected neighborhood. At Cascabel, the wrestling-theme decor is a whimsical backdrop for some seriously delicious, reasonably priced Mexican food—something sorely lacking in New York, and especially on the Upper East Side. Tacos, which come two to an order, are inventive without veering too far from the comfort-food norm. The camaron scatters plump roasted wild shrimp among fresh oregano, garlic oil, and black beans. The beef tongue is slow braised, then topped with spring onion and serrano chilies, nothing like the stuff you’ll find in a deli sandwich containing the same principal ingredient. There’s also fresh, creamy guacamole with house-fried chips, pert tortilla soup with queso fresco cheese and chicken, and dinner-only platters like adobe-marinated Berkshire pork butt with cucumbers and an alluring onion-tamarind mixture. At lunchtime, one of Cascabel’s sandwiches—shredded chicken with mango and smashed avocado, for one—hits the spot with an ice-cold Mexican brew. Inside seating is limited, but in temperate weather the outdoor tables expand your possibilities. | 1538 2nd Ave., between 80th and 81st Sts., Upper East Side | 11028 | 212/717–8226 | www.nyctacos.com | AE, MC, V | No dinner Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Daniel.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Celebrity-chef Daniel Boulud has created one of the most elegant dining experiences in Manhattan today, in an expansive space that recently underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation. The prix-fixe–only menu (there are à la carte selections in the elegant lounge and bar) is predominantly French, with such modern classics as turbot on Himalayan salt with an ale-and-gingerbread sauce, and a duo of dry-aged Angus black beef featuring meltingly tender red wine–braised short ribs and seared rib eye with black trumpet mushrooms and Gorgonzola cream. Equally impressive are the serious artwork, professional service, extensive wine list, and masterful cocktails by Xavier, one of the city’s most respected mixologists. Don’t forget the decadent desserts and overflowing cheese trolley. A three-course vegetarian menu is also available. | 60 E. 65th St., between Madison and Park Aves., Upper East Side | 10065-7056 | 212/288–0033 | www.danielnyc.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch | Subway: 6 to 68th St./Hunter College .

Maya.

$$$ | MEXICAN | The upscale-hacienda appearance of this justifiably popular restaurant showcases some of the best Mexican food in the city, courtesy of pioneering Mexican chef Richard Sandoval. Begin with a fresh mango mojito, then tuck into delicious roasted corn soup with huitlacoche dumplings, stuffed poblano peppers, and smoky filet mignon taco with jalapeño escabeche. Finish with caramelized goat’s-milk

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