New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [222]
Park Avenue Summer/Autumn/Winter/Spring.
$$$ | AMERICAN | New York’s most self-consciously seasonal restaurant swaps out much more than its menu as temperatures change. Four times a year the restaurant—the formerly staid Park Avenue Café—shuts its doors for a head-to-toe makeover, switching, for instance, from a summery blond-wood beach-house motif to dark-wood-and-copper fall-foliage tones. Chef Craig Koketsu’s seasonal food lives up to the striking surroundings. Summer brings a bounty of fresh-shucked corn, with a big, juicy veal chop and heirloom tomatoes. Come autumn the kitchen turns its focus to mushrooms, truffles (on a flaky halibut fillet accompanied by a brioche-crusted poached egg), and game (local quail, big venison chops scattered with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds). Desserts, by award-winning pastry chef Richard Leach, include hard-to-resist elegant creations like sweet-corn ice cream with rhubarb, warm caramel, and popcorn. | 100 E. 63rd St., at Park Ave., Upper East Side | 10065-7310 | 212/644–1900 | www.parkavenyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: F to Lexington Ave./63rd St.; 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.; N, R to 5th Ave./59th St.
Sushi of Gari.
$$$ | JAPANESE | Options at this popular sushi restaurant range from the ordinary (California roll) to such exotic choices as tuna with creamy tofu sauce, miso-marinated cod, or Japanese yellowtail with jalapeño. Japanese noodles (udon or soba) and meat dishes such as teriyaki and negimaki (scallions rolled in thinly sliced beef) are well prepared. Reservations are recommended. Another location at 370 Columbus Avenue gives Upper West Siders their udon fix. | 402 E. 78th St., at 1st Ave., Upper East Side | 10075-1676 | 212/517–5340 | www.sushiofgari.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 6 to 77th St.
UPPER WEST SIDE
Anchoring the dining experience in this section of town are the high-end restaurants at the Time Warner Center, which some call a “fine-dining food court.” Head farther uptown for cheaper eats, but also a burgeoning gourmet dining scene.
With Lincoln Center theatergoers, hungry shoppers, and visitors to Central Park nearby, chefs are finally waking up to the captive built-in audience of tourists and locals alike. The main avenues are indeed lined with restaurants, but until recently many of them have been mediocre. Now the better-known destination-dining spots beyond the Time Warner Center—among them Jean Georges, Picholine, Telepan, and Dovetail—have been joined by newcomers like Salumeria Rossi, Fatty Crab, and Ed’s Chowder, all second or third restaurants from well-known chefs. Brunch is still a good bet, too. The flaky scones and fluffy omelets at Sarabeth’s, not to mention blintzes and bagels at Barney Greengrass, are worth seeking out.
Asiate.
$$$$ | ASIAN | The unparalleled view is reason enough to visit Asiate’s pristine dining room, perched on the 35th floor of the Time Warner Center in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Artfully positioned tables and minimalist decor help direct eyes to the windows, which peer over Central Park. At night crystalline lights reflect in the glass, creating a magical effect. Young chef Brandon Kida creates contemporary dishes with an Asian influence. One of his signature dishes is soba noodles with Osetra caviar and wasabi cream; another standout is Wagyu beef tenderloin with smoked potato puree and braised short rib. Professional, attentive service helps foster an atmosphere of dreamlike luxury. The restaurant offers prix-fixe menus only, and an illustrious wine collection housing 2,000 bottles. | Time Warner Center,80 Columbus Circle, 35th fl., at W. 60th St., Upper West Side | 10023-5800 | 212/805–8881 | www.mandarinoriental.com/newyork/dining/asiate | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St./Columbus