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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [297]

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as important, reason is chatting with shopkeepers so you can steal their recipes.

Nearly a century after pushcarts on Arthur Avenue catered to Italian-American workers constructing the zoo and Botanical Garden, the area teems with meat markets, bakeries, and cheese makers. There are long debates about which store or restaurant is the “best,” but thanks to generations of Italian grandmothers, vendors here wouldn’t dare offer anything less than superfresh, handmade foods.

Although the area is no longer solely Italian—many Latinos and Albanians share this neighborhood now—Italians dominate the food scene. Regulars mostly shop on Saturday afternoon; you’ll find many stores shuttered on Sunday and after 6 pm. | Arthur Ave. between Crescent Ave./E. 184th St. and E. 188th Sts., and 187th St. from Lorillard Pl. to Hughes Ave. Belmont | 10458 | Subway: B, D, 4 to Fordham Rd., then Bx12 east; 2, 5 to Pelham Pkwy., then Bx12 west.

WORTH NOTING

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Wave Hill.

Drawn by stunning views of the Hudson River and New Jersey’s dramatic cliffs, 19th-century Manhattan millionaires built summer homes in the Bronx suburb of Riverdale. One of the most magnificent, Wave Hill, is now a 28-acre public garden and cultural center that attracts green thumbs from all over the world. Along with exquisite gardens, grand beech and oak trees adorn wide lawns, an elegant pergola overlooks the majestic river view, and benches on curving pathways provide quiet respite. Wave Hill House (1843) and Glyndor House (1927) now house art exhibitions, Sunday concerts, and gardening workshops. Even England’s queen stayed here during a visit. It’s worth the schlep. | Independence Ave. at W. 249th St., Riverdale | 10471 | 718/549–3200 | www.wavehill.org | $6; free Tues. and Sat. mornings | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–5:30; mid-Oct.–mid-Apr., Tues.–Sun. 9–4:30; closed Mon. except holidays. Free garden tours Sun. at 2 | Subway: 1 to 231st St., then Bx7 or Bx10 bus to 252nd St. and Riverdale Ave. or free van service hourly from W. 242nd St. station between 9:10 am and 4:10 pm.

WHERE TO EAT IN THE BRONX

Antonio’s Trattoria.

$ | ITALIAN | Antonio’s bills itself as “an Italian restaurant serving simple food,” but that’s underselling it by far. Fantastic classic Italian fare is dished out here; do not miss the baked clams, the house-made ravioli, and the excellent pizzas. It’s a bit off the main Arthur Avenue strip, but worth the trek. | 2370 Belmont Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/733–6630 | antoniostrattoria.com | Closed Mon. | MC, V | Subway: B, D to 182nd.

Zero Otto Nove.

$ | ITALIAN | Though insiders who can get a table swear by Rao’s on 114th in Manhattan, Zero Otto Nove chugs along as one of the best Italian restaurants north of 96th Street. The draw? Wood-oven-fired pizza, perfectly chewy and larded with buffalo mozzarella. The San Matteo, which adds broccoli rabe to the mix, is just as addictive as the plain Jane margherita. | 2357 Arthur Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/220–1027 | Reservations not accepted | MC, V | Closed Mon. | Subway: B, D to 182nd.

SHOPPING IN THE BRONX

The covered Arthur Avenue Retail Market (2344 Arthur Ave., at E. 187th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/367–5686 | Subway: B, D, 4 to Fordham Rd., then 15-min walk or Bx12 east), which houses more than a dozen vendors, was opened by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia in an effort to get the pushcarts off the crowded streets. Inside, you’ll find great sandwiches and pizza, barrels of olives, a butcher specializing in offal, and lots of fresh pastas. Cigars are rolled by hand right at the building’s entrance, alongside Italian gifts and kitchenware. It’s open Monday through Saturday 6–6.

Let an Italian nonna (grandmother) sell you homemade fresh pastas of every kind, shape, and flavor at Borgatti’s Ravioli & Egg Noodles (632 E. 187th St., between Belmont and Hughes Aves., Belmont | 10458 | 718/367–3799). It’s closed all day Monday and Sunday afternoon, and frequently has shorter hours in summer.

Don’t miss the porcine spectacle of Calabria Pork Store (2338 Arthur Ave., between 186th St. and

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