New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [298]
At Calandra Cheese (2314 Arthur Ave., between 186th St. and Crescent Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/365–7572) bulbous spheres of freshly made cheese hang from the ceiling. Go for the cacciocavallo—a dry, salty mozzarella—or the clean-tasting ricotta.
The brick ovens at Madonia Brothers Bakery (2348 Arthur Ave., at 187th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/295–5573) have been turning out golden-brown loaves since 1918, but the true stars are fresh, crispy cannoli, filled only when you order, with not-too-sweet ricotta cream.
QUICK BITES: At Teitel Bros (2372 Arthur Ave., at E. 186th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/733–9400), grab a number and stand elbow-to-elbow with locals buying pungent olives, hulking hunks of hard cheeses, pounds of dried beans, and gallons of olive oil.
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Exploring Staten Island
Staten Island is full of surprises, from a premier collection of Tibetan art to a multifaceted historic village. To explore the borough, take the Staten Island Ferry from the southern tip of Manhattan. After you disembark, grab an S40 bus to the Snug Harbor Cultural Center (about 10 minutes) or take the S74 and combine visits to the Tibetan Museum and Historic Richmond Town.
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EXPLORING STATEN ISLAND
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Historic Richmond Town.
Think of Virginia’s Colonial Williamsburg (the polar opposite of Brooklyn’s scene-y Williamsburg), and you’ll understand the appeal of Richmond Town. This 100-acre village, constructed from 1695 to the 19th century, was the site of Staten Island’s original county seat.
Fifteen of the site’s 27 historic buildings are open to the public. Highlights include the Gothic Revival Courthouse, the one-room General Store, and the Voorlezer’s House, one of the oldest buildings on the site. It served as a residence, a place of worship, and an elementary school.
Also on-site is the Staten Island Historical Society Museum, built in 1848 as the second county clerk’s and surrogate’s office, which now houses Staten Island artifacts plus changing exhibits about the island. Audio tours are free with admission. You may see staff in period dress demonstrate Early American crafts and trades such as tinsmithing or basket making, though the general era meant to be re-created is 1820–1860. December brings a monthlong Christmas celebration.
Take the S74–Richmond Road bus (30 minutes) or a car service (about $15) from the ferry terminal. | 441 Clarke Ave., Richmondtown | 10306 | 718/351–1611 | www.historicrichmondtown.org | $5 | July and Aug., Wed.–Sun. 11–5; Sept.–June, Wed.–Sun. 1–5 | Subway: S74 bus to St. Patrick’s Pl.
Fodor’s Choice | Staten Island Ferry.
One of Staten Island’s biggest attractions is free—the phenomenal view of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty afforded by the 25-minute ferry ride across New York Harbor. From Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan, catch the ferry, which leaves every 15 minutes to half hour. | Runs between Manhattan’s Whitehall Terminal, Whitehall and South Sts., and Staten Island’s St. George Terminal | www.siferry.com | Subway: 4, 5 to Bowling Green; R to Whitehall St.; 1 to South Ferry.
WORTH NOTING
Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Art.
At the top of a hill sits this replica of a Tibetan monastery containing one of the largest collections of Tibetan and Himalayan sculpture, paintings, and artifacts outside Tibet. Meditate with visiting Buddhist monks, or just enjoy the peaceful views from the terraced garden. | 338 Lighthouse Ave., Richmondtown | 10306 | 718/987–3500 | www.tibetanmuseum.org | $5 | Thurs.–Sun. 1–5 | Subway: S74 bus to Lighthouse Ave. and walk uphill 15 mins.
Snug Harbor Cultural Center.
Once part of a sprawling farm, this 83-acre community is now a popular spot to see maritime art, frolic in the Children’s Museum, or take a stroll through lush gardens.
Made up of 26