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Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [100]

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16th century, and could easily serve as a film set. Merchants cater to the sizable influx of tourists with a plethora of kitschy souvenir shops; bypass them to peep into courtyards with massive wine presses, to study the woodwork and ornately decorated houses, to stand in the narrow old courtyard that was once the Jewish quarter, or to climb up a narrow wooden stair to the ramparts. You would also do well to settle into a winstub to sample some of Riquewihr’s famous wines. Just strolling at will down the heavenly romantic streets will reward your eye with bright blue, half-timber houses, storybook gables, and storks’-nest towers. The facades of certain houses dating from the late Gothic period take pride of place, including the Maison Kiener (1574), the Maison Priess (1686), and the Maison Liebrich (1535), but the Tower of Thieves and the Postal Museum, ensconced in the château of the duke of Württemberg, are also fascinating.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN RIQUEWIHR

Au Tire-Bouchon.

$–$$ | GERMAN | “The Corkscrew,” with its sky-blue walls and red-and-white checkered tablecloths, is the best winstub in town to feast on Alsatian varieties of choucroute garni, including some rare delights like the verte (“green,” flavored with parsley) version and the blowout “Choucroute Royale.” The famous “Choucroute Royale” is garnished with seven different kinds of meats and served with a half bottle of mulled champagne plopped in the center of a mound of sauerkraut. The contents of the bottle are then poured by the waitress, with great flourish, over the entire dish. There are also some adventurous innovations on the menu, which changes seasonally, and a fine selection of Muscats and in-house fruit brandies. With communal tables and friendly service, this is heartily recommended for that guaranteed touch of authenticity. If booked up, try the nearby Auberge du Schoenebourg. | 29 rue du Général-de-Gaulle | 68340 | 03–89–47–91–61 | www.riquewihr-zimmer.com | AE, MC, V | Jan.–Mar., closed Mon., no dinner Sun. or Wed.

Hôtel de la Couronne.

$–$$ | Like an illustration out of the Brothers Grimm, this hotel is set in a 16th-century house with central tower and side wings. Its steep mansard roof, country shutters, and rusticated stone trim beautifully blend into the heart of medieval Riquewihr—the only modern note will be your car (allowed to drive to the hotel even though the town center is pedestrianized). Inside, several rooms have grand timber beams and folkloric wall stencils, making this a truly charming base for touring a truly charming town. Pros: good location; outdoor dining in summer, old-world charm. Cons: no elevator; service is inconsistent. | 5 rue de la Couronne | 68340 | 03–89–49–03–03 | www.hoteldelacouronne.com | 41 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.

Sarment d’Or.

¢–$ | This cozy little family-run hotel by the city walls, near the Dolder belfry, blends irreproachable modern comforts with bare-stone walls and dark-timber ceilings. Rooms are pleasant, bright, and clean, and despite Riquewihr’s being car-free, you can drive your vehicle up to the door for a luggage drop-off. The top-floor duplex suite is an exceptional value. The restaurant downstairs offers firelight romance and delicious cuisine—foie gras, frogs’ legs in garlic cream, and breast of duck in pinot noir; it’s closed Monday and does not serve dinner Sunday or lunch Tuesday. Pros: pleasant rooms; good food. Cons: no elevator; no air-conditioning. | 4 rue du Cerf | 68340 | 03–89–86–02–86 | www.riquewihr-sarment-dor.com | 9 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, parking (paid) | MC, V | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. and 1st wk in July | MAP.

COLMAR

13 km (8 mi) southeast of Riquewihr via D3/D10, 71 km (44 mi) southwest of Strasbourg.

Forget that much of Colmar’s architecture is modern (because of the destruction wrought by World Wars I and II): its Vieille Ville (Old Town) heart—an atmospheric maze of narrow streets lined with candy-color, half-timber Renaissance houses hanging over cobblestone lanes

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