Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [99]
Zum Pfifferhüs.
$ | GERMAN | This is a true-blue winstub, with yellowed murals, glowing lighting, and great local wines available by the glass. The cooking is pure Alsace, with German-scale portions of choucroute, ham hock, and fruit tarts. Book ahead. | 14 Grand-Rue | 68150 | 03–89–73–62–28 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Thurs. Nov.–July, Wed., mid-Feb.–mid-Mar., and 1st 2 wks in July.
WHERE TO STAY IN RIBEAUVILLÉ
Hôtel de la Tour.
$ | In the center of Ribeauvillé and across from the Tour des Bouchers, this erstwhile family winery, with an ornate Renaissance fountain outside its front door, is a good choice for experiencing the atmospheric town by night. Rooms and amenities are modern and surprisingly spacious; those on the top floor have exposed timbers and wonderful views of ramshackle rooftops. As you would expect, given the history of the hotel, the owners can give expert advice when it comes to wine tours. Pros: family run; good amenities, including a sauna and Jacuzzi. Cons: no air-conditioning; possible language-barrier problems. | 1 rue de la Mairie | 68150 | 03–89–73–72–73 | www.hotel-la-tour.com | 31 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, gym, parking (free) | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Jan.–mid-Mar.
Hôtel des Berges.
$$$$ | If you want to enjoy the pleasant surroundings of the Auberge, with its terraced lawns and romantic trees beside the River Ill, opt for an overnight in one of the guest rooms in the new Hôtel des Berges, set behind L’Auberge de l’Ill restaurant and designed to evoke an Alsatian tobacco barn, replete with Havanese woods, rooms named after famous cigars, and a lulling and lovely country-luxe decor. For that quintessentially romantic moment, opt for breakfast afloat in a cane-trunk boat, complete with wicker basket, white tablecloth, and personal punter. Special “youth” rates are available to those under 35. Pros: romantic and opulent; close to excellent restaurant. Cons: pricey. | 2 rue de Collonges-au Mont d’Or, 10 km (6 mi) east of Ribeauvillé, | 68970 | Illhaeusern | 03–89–71–87–87 | www.hotel-des-berges.fr | 13 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues. and Feb.
Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre.
$$–$$$ | On the edge of Ribeauvillé’s old quarter, this gracious half-timber, restored 18th-century inn offers a warm regional welcome with a touch of flair. It has exposed timbers in pastel tones, sumptuous fabrics, and slick bathrooms upstairs, as well as a fire crackling downstairs on your way to the generous breakfast. The two “Maries,” owners for more than two decades, bring an unpretentious, sisterly vibe to this intimate address where, relaxing with a glass beside the hearth and gentle conversation more than compensates for the absence of a dining room. Pros: tasteful and cozy; central location; gracious hosts. Cons: stuffy in summer (no air-conditioning). | 11 rue du Château | 68150 | 03–89–73–70–31 | www.ribeaupierre.com | 10 rooms | In-room: no a/c, no TV. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid) | AE, MC, V | Closed Jan. and Feb. | BP.
RIQUEWIHR
5 km (3 mi) south of Ribeauvillé.
With its dormer windows fit for a Rapunzel, hidden cul-de-sacs home to Rumpelstiltskins, and unique once-upon-a-timeliness, Riquewihr is the showpiece of the Wine Route and a living museum of the quaint architecture of old Alsace. Its steep main street, ramparts, and winding back alleys have scarcely changed since the