Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [98]
Among the precious medieval and Renaissance manuscripts on display at the Bibliothèque Humaniste (Humanist Library), a major library founded in 1452 and installed in the former Halle aux Blés, are a 7th-century lectionary and a 12th-century Book of Miracles. There’s also a town register from 1521, with the first-ever recorded reference to a Christmas tree! | 1 rue de la Bibliothèque | 67600 | 03–88–58–07–20 | www.bh-selestat.fr | €3.90 | Sept.–June, Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6, Sat. 9–noon; July and Aug., Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6, weekends 2–5.
HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG
11 km (7 mi) west of Sélestat via D159.
One of the most popular spots in Alsace is the romantic, crag-top castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg, originally built as a fortress in the 12th century.
Fodor’s Choice | The ruins of the Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg were presented by the town of Sélestat to German emperor Wilhelm II in 1901. The château looked just as a kaiser thought one should, and he restored it with some diligence and no lack of imagination—squaring the main tower’s original circle, for instance. The site, panorama, drawbridge, and amply furnished imperial chambers may lack authenticity, but they are undeniably dramatic. Call the “on demand” service (08–00–10–09–48) in Sélestat to arrange transport to Orschwiller (Haut-Koenigsbourg). | 03–88–82–50–60 | www.haut-koenigsbourg.fr | €7.50 | Nov.–Feb., daily 9:45–noon and 1–4:30; Mar. and Oct., daily 9:45–4:30; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 9:30–5; June–Aug., daily 9:30–6.
RIBEAUVILLÉ
13 km (8 mi) south of Haut-Koenigsbourg via St-Hippolyte, 16 km (10 mi) southwest of Sélestat.
The beautiful half-timber town of Ribeauvillé, surrounded by rolling vineyards and three imposing châteaux, produces some of the best wines in Alsace. (The Trimbach family has made Riesling and superb Gewürztraminer here since 1626.) The town’s narrow main street, crowded with winstubs, pottery shops, bakeries, and wine sellers, is bisected by the 13th-century Tour des Bouchers, a clock-belfry completed (gargoyles and all) in the 15th century.
Getting Here and Around
Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 68150) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40) via Sélestat (€7.50), where you can change for omnibus services to Ribeauvillé (€2.10).
Visitor Information
Ribeauvillé Tourist Office.
| 1 Grand Rue | 68150 | 03–89–73–23–23 | www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com.
EXPLORING RIBEAUVILLÉ
Storks’ nests crown several towers in Ribeauvillé, while streets are adorned with quaint shop signs, fairy-tale turrets, and tour guides herding the crowds with directions in French and German. Head for the Place de la Marie and its Hôtel de Ville to see its famous collection of silver-gilt 16th-century tankards and chalices.
Place de la Marie is a great place to perch come every first Sunday in September, when the town hosts a grand parade to celebrate the Fête des Ménétriers (Fête of the Minstrels), a day when at least one fountain here spouts free Riesling. Headlined by medieval musicians, the party begins mid-afternoon, while the best street seats go for €10 each. Contact the tourist office early for information.
WHERE TO EAT IN RIBEAUVILLÉ
Fodor’s Choice | L’Auberge de l’Ill.
$$$$ | FRENCH | England’s late Queen Mother, Marlene Dietrich, and Montserrat Caballé are just a few of the famous who have feasted at this culinary temple, but, oddly, the place has never been as famous as it should be, the long trek from Paris to the half-timber village of Illhaeusern perhaps the reason. Still, you need to book weeks in advance (closed Monday and Tuesday) to snare a table in this classic yet casual dining room. Master chef Paul Haeberlin died in 2008, but his son Marc continues to marry grand and Alsatian cuisine with Asian nuances (a second Auberge de l’Ill opened in Japan in 2007). The results are impressive: salmon soufflé, lamb chops in dainty strudel, and showstoppers like le homard Prince Vladimir, or lobster with shallots braised in champagne