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Church) houses the Flemish-influenced Madonna of the Rosebush (1473), by Martin Schongauer (1445–91), the most celebrated painting by the noted 15th-century German artist. This work, stolen from St-Martin’s in 1972 and later recovered and hung here, has almost certainly been reduced in size from its original state but retains enormous impact. The grace and intensity of the Virgin match that of the Christ Child; yet her slender fingers dent the child’s soft flesh (and his fingers entwine her curls) with immediate intimacy. Schongauer’s text for her crown is: ME CARPES GENITO TUO O SANTISSIMA VIRGO (“Choose me also for your child, O holiest Virgin”). | Pl. des Dominicains | 68000 | 03–89–24–46–57 | €1.50 | Mid-Mar.–Dec., daily 10–1 and 3–6.

The Musée Bartholdi (Bartholdi Museum) is the birthplace of Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi (1834–1904), the local sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty. Exhibits of Bartholdi’s works claim the ground floor; a reconstruction of the artist’s Paris apartments and furniture are upstairs; and, in adjoining rooms, the creation of Lady Liberty is explored. | 30 rue des Marchands | 68000 | 03–89–41–90–60 | www.musee-bartholdi.com | €4.50 | Dec. and Jan., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT IN COLMAR

Au Koïfhus.

$ | FRENCH | Not to be confused with the shabby little Koïfhus winstub on Rue des Marchands, this popular landmark (the name means “customs-house”) serves huge portions of regional standards, plus changing specialties: roast quail and foie gras on salad, game stews with spaetzle (tiny dumplings), and freshwater fish. Appreciative tourists and canny locals contribute to the lively atmosphere. If you can cut a swath through this enthusiastic horde, choose between the big, open dining room, glowing with wood and warm fabric, and a shaded table on the broad, lovely square. | 2 pl. de l’Ancienne-Douane | 68000 | 03–89–23–04–90 | MC, V.

Chez Hansi.

$$ | FRENCH | Named after the Rockwell-like illustrator whose beclogged folk children adorn most of the souvenirs of Alsace, this hyper-traditional beamed tavern in the Vieille Ville serves excellent down-home classics such as quiche Lorraine, choucroute, and pot-au-feu, prepared and served with a sophisticated touch, despite the friendly waitresses’ folksy dirndls. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, given the quality of the food and the eatery’s location in a heavily touristed part of town, though the wine list is limited to the Bestheim selection. | 23 rue des Marchands | 68000 | 03–89–41–37–84 | MC, V | Closed Wed. and Thurs., and Jan.

Le Rendez-vous de Chasse.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Brimming with confidence gained at the hallowed halls of Auberge de L’Ill, the stellar cuisine of Mickaela Peters is as refined, elegant, and chic as the decor of this opulent Renaissance mansion. It’s well worth the wrangle to secure a table here, where some of the region’s finest dishes are prepared with aplomb, and a memorable three courses will set you back a paltry €48. An extensive cellar accents perfectly dishes like foie gras and veal sweetbread terrine, and langoustine ravioli with asparagus and morel fricassee. | 7 pl. de la Gare | 68000 | 03–89–41–10–10 | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V.

WHERE TO STAY IN COLMAR

Fodor’s Choice | Le Maréchal.

$$–$$$ | A maze of narrow, creaky corridors connects the series of Renaissance houses that make up this romantic riverside inn. Built in 1565 in the fortified walls that encircle the Vieille Ville, the Maréchal has rooms that are small but lavished with extravagant detail, from glossy rafters to rich brocades to four-poster beds (and even Jacuzzis)—ask for the Wagner or Bach rooms. A vivid color scheme—scarlet, sapphire, candy pink—adds to the Vermeer atmosphere. This is not a high-tech luxury hotel: it’s an endearing, quirky, lovely old place hanging over a Petite Venise canal. The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, À l’Échevin, offers such dishes as terrine of rouget, leeks, truffles, and pigeon breast and foie gras crisped in pastry. Dine in salons or on the terrace perched over the river. Pros: pretty