Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [103]
Rapp.
$–$$ | In the Vieille Ville, just off the Champ de Mars, this solid, modern hotel has business-class comforts, a professional and welcoming staff, and a good German-scale breakfast. There’s even an extensive indoor pool complex, including sauna, steam bath, and workout equipment—all included in the low price. All rooms have been recently and tastefully “refreshed.” The restaurant serves dependable regional fare (including vegetarian dishes), is closed Friday, and does not serve dinner Thursday or lunch Saturday. Pros: good value; modern amenities; helpful staff. Cons: difficult to find. | 1–3–5 rue Weinemer | 68000 | 03–89–41–62–10 | www.rapp-hotel.com | 38 rooms | In-room: a/c, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, gym | AE, DC, MC, V.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN COLMAR
A guide to bicycling in the Lorraine is available from the Comité Départemental de Cyclisme. For a list of signposted trails in the Vosges foothills, contact the Sélestat Tourist Office. Loisirs Accueil Haut-Rin (1 rue Schlumberger | 68000 | Colmar | 03–89–20–10–62 | www.tourisme-alsace.com) is a helpful association for bicyclists in the Colmar area.
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EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN ALSACE-LORRAINE
Bountiful is the watchword of this gastronomic region where lush vineyards flourish, rustic winstubs serve heaping platters of choucroute garnie, and restaurants with top chefs boast more Michelin stars than anywhere else in France.
A visit to the proud and bountiful region of Alsace promises sensory overload: gorgeous vistas, antique walled towns, satisfying meals—from farm-style to richly gastronomic—and, most notably, an array of superb wines to discover. The predominantly white varietals, such as Riesling and Pinot Gris, complement the region’s rich and varied traditional cooking. It’s not for nouvelle-style cooking or fusion dishes that you come to Alsace: no, tradition is king here, and copious is an understatement. When it comes to rustic regional fare, you have hearty stews, custardy quiches, sauerkraut platters, and the thin-crusted onion tarts known as Flammekeuche. Also to be savored are some of the best restaurants in France, including the noble, romantic Auberge de L’Ill in Illhausern, where a salmon mousse with a Riesling reduction sauce might catch your fancy.
FOLLOW THE WINES
Alsace is one of France’s most important but least-known wine-producing regions, where vintners designate wines by grape varietals not by town or château. Look for distinctive whites, like full-bodied pinot gris; delicately fruity Sylvaner; citrus-y Riesling; and spicy Gewürztraminer. In reds, pinot noir stands alone. Top producers include: Hugel et Fils, Riquewihr; F. E. Trimbach, Ribeauvillé; and Léon Beyer, Eguisheim.
KOUGELHOPH
This tall, fluted, crown-shape cake, dusted with sugar and studded with raisins and almonds, beckons invitingly from every pastry-shop window in the region. You won’t resist.
The delicately sweet, yeast-based dough is kneaded and proofed, baked in a bundt-style mold, and traditionally served, sometimes sprinkled with kirsch, at Sunday breakfast.
Locals say it’s even better on the second day, when it achieves a perfect, slightly dry texture.
CHOUCROUTE GARNIE
Daunting in its copious generosity, a heaping platter of choucroute garnie, laden with fermented sauerkraut, smoked bacon, ham, pork shoulder, sausages and potatoes, is the signature dish of the region.
The best places serving it, usually bistrolike winstubs such as the atmospheric Wistub Zum Pfifferhus in Ribeauvillé (03–89–73–62–28), are worth a detour.
You’ve never had sauerkraut like this, tender and delicate, dotted with juniper berries