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handwriting, is good—chicken-liver terrine, curly endive salad with bacon and a poached egg, steak with béarnaise—and the atmosphere is better, compensating for the rather steep prices. In the dining room, a white-clothed stretch of tables lines the mirrored walls and attentive waiters sweep efficiently up and down. Order one of the wines indicated in colored ink on the menu and you can drink as much or as little of it as you want (and be charged accordingly); there’s also another wine list with grander bottles. | 1 rue du Mail, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–07–11 | AE, MC, V | Closed weekends, Aug., 1 wk at Christmas, and 1 wk in Feb. | Station: Sentier

Fodor’s Choice | Frenchie.

$$ | BISTRO | Grégory Marchand worked in New York and with Jamie Oliver in London before opening this brick-and-stone-walled bistro on a pedestrian street near Rue Montorgueil, which explains the tongue-in-cheek name. Though it hasn’t had much press, word of mouth has quickly made it one of the most packed bistros in town. Marchand owes a large part of his success to the great-value €35 three-course menu at dinner—boldly flavored dishes such as calamari gazpacho with squash blossoms, and melt-in-the-mouth braised lamb with roasted eggplant and spinach are excellent options. Desserts seem a tiny bit less stunning, but with good service and a laid-back atmosphere, this restaurant is headed for long-term success. It’s prix fixe only. | 5 rue de Nil, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–40–39–96–19 | www.frenchie-restaurant.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., 2 wks in Aug., 10 days at Christmas. No lunch Tues. or Sat. | Station: Sentier

Le Vaudeville.

$$$ | BRASSERIE | Part of the Flo group of historic brasseries, Le Vaudeville is filled with journalists, bankers, and locals d’un certain âge who come for the good-value assortment of prix-fixe menus (including two courses for €20.50 after 10:30 PM) and highly professional service. Shellfish, house-smoked salmon, foie gras with raisins, slow-braised lamb, and desserts such as the floating island topped with pralines are particularly enticing. Enjoy the graceful 1920s decor—almost the entire interior of this intimate dining room is done in real or faux marble—and lively dining until 1 AM daily. | 29 rue Vivienne, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–40–20–04–62 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bourse

Yam’Tcha.

$$–$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | Adeline Grattard’s little bistro has become so popular that tables are snapped up weeks ahead, which is no surprise when you learn that she worked at L’Astrance before spending time in Hong Kong, where she picked up many of her techniques. Inspired by Chinese cooking, many of her dishes rely on brilliant flavor combinations and very precise cooking. A signature dish is the roasted Challans duck with Sichuan-style eggplant: two elements that create magic together. Adeline’s husband Chi Wa acts as a tea sommelier, though alcohol is also available. It’s prix fixe only. | 4 rue Sauval, Les Halles | 75001 | 01–40–26–08–07 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues. | Station: Louvre-Rivoli or Les Halles.

3E ARRONDISSEMENT (BEAUBOURG/MARAIS)

Breizh Café.

¢ | MODERN FRENCH | Eating a crepe in Paris might seem a bit clichéd, until you venture into this modern offshoot of a creperie in Cancale, Brittany. The pale-wood, almost Japanese-style decor is refreshing, but what really makes the difference are the ingredients—farmers’ eggs, unpasteurized Gruyère, shiitake mushrooms, Valrhona chocolate, homemade caramel, and extraordinary butter from Breton dairy farmer Jean-Yves Bordier. You’ll find all the classics among thegalettes (buckwheat crepes), but it’s worth choosing something more adventurous like the cancalaise (traditionally smoked herring, potato, crème fraîche, and herring roe). You might also slurp a few Cancale oysters, a rarity in Paris, and try one of the 20 artisanal ciders on offer. |109 rue Vieille du Temple, Le Marais | 75003 |01–42–72–13–77 | MC, V | Closed Mon., Tues., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart

Cantine Merci.

¢ | CAFÉ | Deep inside the