Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [137]
Chez Omar.
$$$ | NORTH AFRICAN | This is no longer the only trendy North African restaurant in town, but during fashion week you still might see top models with legs like gazelles touching up their lipstick in front of the vintage mirrors—though that doesn’t stop them from digging into huge platters of couscous with grilled skewered lamb, spicy merguez sausage, lamb shank, or chicken, washed down with robust, fruity Algerian or Moroccan wine. Proprietor Omar Guerida speaks English and is famously friendly to all. The setting is that of a beautifully faded French bistro, complete with elbow-to-elbow seating, so be prepared to partake of your neighbors’ conversations. | 47 rue de Bretagne, République | 75003 | 01–42–72–36–26 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | No lunch Sun. | Station: Temple, République.
Le Georges.
$$–$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | One of those rooftop showstopping venues so popular in Paris, Le Georges preens atop the Centre Georges Pompidou, accessed by its own entrance to the left of the main doors. The staff is as streamlined and angular as the furniture, and at night the terrace has distinct snob appeal. Come snappily dressed or you may be relegated to something resembling a dentist’s waiting room. Part of the Costes brothers’ empire, the establishment trots out fashionable dishes such as sesame-crusted tuna and coriander-spiced beef fillet flambéed with cognac. It’s all considerably less dazzling than the view, except for the suitably decadent desserts (indulge in the Cracker’s cheesecake with yogurt sorbet). | Centre Pompidou, 6th fl.,19 rue Rambuteau, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75003 | 01–44–78–47–99 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Tues. | Station: Rambuteau
4E ARRONDISSEMENT (MARAIS/ILE ST-LOUIS)
Au Bourguignon du Marais.
$$–$$$ | BISTRO | The handsome, contemporary look of this Marais bistro and wine bar is the perfect backdrop for the good traditional fare and excellent Burgundies served by the glass and bottle. Unusual for Paris, food is served nonstop from noon to 11 PM. Always on the menu are Burgundian classics such as jambon persillé (ham in parsleyed aspic jelly), escargots, and bœuf Bourguignon (beef stewed in red wine). More up-to-date picks include a cèpe-mushroom velouté with poached oysters (though the fancier dishes are generally less successful). The terrace is hotly sought after in warmer months. | 52 rue François-Miron, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–15–40 | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 2 wks in Feb. | Station: St-Paul
Benoît.
$$$–$$$$ | BISTRO | If you loved Benoît before it became the property of Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse—the pair that revived Aux Lyonnais—chances are you’ll adore it now. Without changing the vintage 1912 setting, which needed nothing more than a minor dusting, the illustrious new owners have subtly improved the menu with dishes such as marinated salmon, frogs’ legs in a morel-mushroom cream sauce, and an outstanding cassoulet served in a cast-iron pot. Hardworking young chef David Rathgeber, formerly of Aux Lyonnais, keeps the kitchen running smoothly, and the waiters are charm incarnate. It’s a splurge to be here, so go all the way and top off your meal with tarte tatin that’s caramelized to the core or a rum-doused baba. | 20 rue St-Martin, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–25–76 | AE, MC, V | Closed