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Bofinger.

$$$–$$$$ | BRASSERIE | One of the oldest, loveliest, and most popular brasseries in Paris has generally improved in recent years, so stake out one of the tables dressed in crisp white linen under the glowing Art Nouveau glass cupola and enjoy classic brasserie fare (stick to trademark dishes such as the seafood choucroute, lamb fillet, or smoked haddock with spinach, as the seasonal specials can be hit-or-miss). The prix-fixe for €31.50 includes a decent half bottle of red or white wine, and there is a generous children’s menu. | 5–7 rue de la Bastille, Bastille/Nation | 75004 | 01–42–72–87–82 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bastille

Cru.

$$–$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | It’s hard to imagine a raw food restaurant in a city famous for its slow-simmered dishes but, since opening in summer 2009, Cru has enjoyed instant success—the bucolic terrace in a cobbled Marais courtyard has something to do with this, as does the extensive menu’s refusal to take the raw concept to extremes: a few cooked dishes are available, such as meat or fish prepared a la plancha and root vegetable “fries.” If you decide to stick to the raw dishes, you won’t be disappointed: the “green plate,” variations on cucumber, displays the chef’s well-judged creativity, while silky veal carpaccio with preserved lemon has a lively flavor. Most of the desserts depart from the raw theme, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The restaurant doubles as a wine bar, so there are plenty of interesting bottles to choose from. | 7 rue Charlemagne, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–40–27–81–84 | www.restaurantcru.fr | MC, V | Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug. | Station: St-Paul.

L’As du Fallafel.

¢–$ | ISRAELI | Look no further than the fantastic falafel stands on the newly pedestrian Rue de Rosiers for some of the cheapest and tastiest meals in Paris. L’As (the Ace) is widely considered the best of the bunch, which accounts for the lunchtime line that extends into the street. A falafel sandwich costs €5 to go, €7 in the dining room, and comes heaped with grilled eggplant, cabbage, hummus, tahini, and hot sauce. The shawarma (grilled, skewered meat) sandwich, made with chicken or lamb, is also one of the finest in town. Though takeout is popular, it can be more fun (and not as messy) to eat off a plastic plate in one of the two frenzied dining rooms. Fresh lemonade is the falafel’s best match. | 34 rue des Rosiers, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–63–60 | MC, V | Closed Sat. No dinner Fri. | Station: St-Paul

Fodor’s Choice | Mon Vieil Ami.

$–$$ | MODERN FRENCH | “Modern Alsatian” might sound like an oxymoron, but once you’ve tasted the food here, you’ll understand. The updated medieval dining room—stone walls, dark-wood tables, and small glass-panel dividers—provides a stylish milieu for the inventive cooking orchestrated by star Alsatian chef Antoine Westermann, which showcases heirloom vegetables (such as yellow carrots and pink-and-white beets) from star producer Joël Thiébault. Pâté en croûte (wrapped in pastry) with a knob of foie gras is hard to resist among the starters. Long-cooked, wine-marinated venison comes with succulent accompaniments of quince, prune, celery root, and chestnuts. This is not necessarily the place for a romantic dinner since seating is a little tight, but the quality of the food never falters. Call during opening hours (11:30–2:30 and 7–11) to book, since they don’t answer the phone the rest of the time. | 69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–40–46–01–35 | www.mon-vieill-ami.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon., Tues., 3 wks in Jan., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Pont Marie

5E ARRONDISSEMENT (LATIN QUARTER)

Chez René.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | Run by the same family for 50 years, Chez René changed owners in 2007. The new team has wisely preserved the bistro’s traditional spirit while brightening the decor and adding chic touches such as valet parking. The menu still consists mainly of Lyonnais classics, but you’ll now find some of these grouped into color-theme menus such as “red” (beet salad, coq au vin, and Quincy wine)