Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [139]
La Tour d’Argent.
$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | La Tour d’Argent has had a rocky time in recent years with the loss of a Michelin star, the death of famed owner Claude Terrail, but chef Stéphane Haissant has found his footing, and there’s no denying the splendor of its setting overlooking the Seine. If you don’t want to splash out on dinner, treat yourself to the three-course lunch menu for a reduced price of €65; this entitles you to succulent slices of one of the restaurant’s numbered ducks (the great duck slaughter began in 1919 and is now well past the millionth mallard, as your numbered certificate will attest). Don’t be too daunted by the vast wine list—with the aid of the sommelier you can splurge a little (about €80) and perhaps taste a rare vintage Burgundy from the extraordinary cellars, which survived World War II. | 15–17 quai de la Tournelle, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–23–31 | www.latourdargent.com | Reservations essential; jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.
Le Pré Verre.
$ | MODERN FRENCH | Chef Philippe Delacourcelle knows his cassia bark from his cinnamon, thanks to a long stint in Asia, and he opened this lively bistro, with its purple-gray walls and photos of jazz musicians, to showcase his unique culinary style, rejuvenating archetypal French dishes with Asian and Mediterranean spices. So popular has it proved, especially with Japanese visitors, that the restaurant opened a branch in Tokyo in late 2007. His bargain prix-fixe menus (€13.50 at lunch for a main dish, glass of wine, and coffee; €28.50 for three courses at dinner) change constantly, but his trademark spiced suckling pig with crisp cabbage is a winner, as is his rhubarb compote with gingered white-chocolate mousse. Ask for advice in selecting wine from a list that highlights small producers. | 8 rue Thénard, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–59–47 | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Maubert-Mutualité
Fodor’s Choice | Ribouldingue.
$$$ | BISTRO | Find offal off-putting? Don’t let that stop you from trying this new bistro near the ancient St-Julien-le-Pauvre church, where offcuts take pride of place on the compulsory €27 prix-fixe. You can avoid odd animal bits completely, if you must, and still have an excellent meal—opt for dishes like marinated salmon or veal rib with fingerling potatoes—or go out on a limb with the tétine de vache (thin breaded and fried slices of cow’s udder) and groin de cochon (the tip of a pig’s snout). This adventurous menu is the brainchild of Nadège Varigny, daughter of a Lyonnais butcher (quel surpise). She runs the front of the house while chef Caroline Moncel turns out the impeccable food—veal kidney with potato gratin is a house classic and there are always three fish dishes. Don’t miss the unusual desserts, like tangy ewe’s-milk ice cream. | 10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–46–33–98–80 | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., 1 wk in spring, 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk in winter | Station: St-Michel.
6E ARRONDISSEMENT (ST-GERMAIN)
Fogòn St-Julien.
$–$$ | SPANISH | The most ambitious Spanish restaurant in Paris occupies an airy Seine-side space, avoiding tapas-bar clichés. The seasonal all-tapas menu, at €49 per person, is the most creative choice, but that would mean missing out on the paella: saffron with seafood (which could be a bit more generous), inky squid, or Valencia-style with rabbit, chicken, and vegetables. Finish up with custardy crème Catalan and a glass of muscatel. | 45 quai des Grands-Augustins, Quartier Latin | 75006 | 01–43–54–31–33 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner weekends | Station: St-Michel