Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [16]
Dieppe.
$–$$ | Established in 1880, the Dieppe remains up-to-date thanks to resolute management by five generations of the Guéret family. Staff members also are helpful, and they speak English. The compact rooms are cheerful and modern (No. 22 is the largest); street noise can be a problem, however, despite double-glazed windows. The restaurant, Les Quatre Saisons (no lunch Saturday), serves seasonal dishes with an emphasis on fish, such as the sole Michèle (poached in a light wine sauce), but is best known for its pressed duckling. Pros: personal service; handy for train station. Cons: lacks character; a bit away from city center. | Pl. Bernard-Tissot, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–71–96–00 | www.hotel-dieppe.fr | 41 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.
Mercure Centre.
$$–$$$ | In the jumble of streets near the cathedral—a navigational challenge if you arrive by car—this modern chain hotel has small, comfortable guest rooms done in breezy pastels. The hotel is handy for exploring the old streets of the city center. Pros: functional; central. Cons: featureless decor; hard to find. | 7 rue de la Croix-de-Fer, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–35–52–69–52 | www.mercure.com | 125 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.
Vieux Carré.
¢–$ | In the heart of Old Rouen, this cute hotel has small, practical, and comfortable rooms furnished with a taste for the exotic: lamps from Egypt, tables from Morocco, and 1940s English armoires. Ask for one of the rooms on the third floor for a view of the cathedral; No. 23 is the prettiest. Breakfast and lunch are served in the leafy courtyard, weather permitting, or in the cozy little bistro (closed Sunday) off the reception area. Lunches are light and simple. Pros: charming; central. Cons: small rooms; hard to park. | 34 rue Ganterie, Gare, | 76000 | 02–35–71–67–70 | 14 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.
NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN ROUEN
The Fête Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Festival) takes place on the Sunday nearest to May 30, with parades, street plays, concerts, exhibitions, and a medieval market.Operas, plays, and concerts are staged at the Théâtre des Arts (7 rue du Dr-Rambert, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–71–41–36 | www.operaderouen.com). Visit the popular local haunt Bar de la Crosse (53 rue de l’Hôpital, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–35–70–16–68) for an aperitif and a good chat with some friendly Rouennais.
FÉCAMP
Visitor Information
Fécamp Tourist Office.
| 113 rue Alexandre-le-Grand | 76400 | 02–35–28–51–01 | www.fecamptourisme.com.
The ancient cod-fishing port of Fécamp was once a major pilgrimage site. The magnificent abbey church, Abbaye de La Trinité (Rue Leroux | 76400), bears witness to Fécamp’s religious past. The Benedictine abbey was founded by the Duke of Normandy in the 11th century and became the home of the monastic order of the Précieux Sang de la Trinité (Precious Blood of the Trinity—referring to Christ’s blood, which supposedly arrived here in the 7th century in a reliquary from the Holy Land).
Fécamp is also the home of Benedictine liqueur. The Palais de la Bénédictine (Benedictine Palace), across from the tourist office, is a florid building dating from 1892 that mixes neo-Gothic and Renaissance styles. Watery pastiche or taste-tingling architectural cocktail? Whether you’re shaken or stirred, this remains one of Normandy’s most popular attractions. The interior is just as exhausting as the facade. Paintings, sculptures, ivories, advertising posters, and fake bottles of Benedictine compete for attention with a display of the ingredients used for the liqueur, and a chance to sample it. There’s also