Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [17]
WHERE TO EAT IN FÉCAMP
La Marée.
$$ | FRENCH | Overlooking Fécamp’s lively harbor, this popular seafood restaurant makes up in conviviality what it lacks in charm. Considering the number of seafood plateaux that breeze by, it seems no one pays much attention to decor anyway. For sheer volume, the dishes will please even the most insatiable gourmand, then factor in variety and freshness (most everything is caught locally) and you’ve got a winning combo. Gigantic langoustine, plump crabs, and the renowned Fécamp herring are standouts, along with a nice variety of warm dishes, including a sensational whole grilled sole and a hearty local specialty: salt cod poached in Normandy cream. At €22, the lunch formule is a good bargain. | 77 quai Bérigny | 76400 | 02–35–29–39–15 | www.fecamp-restaurant-la-maree.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. and Thurs.
L’Escalier.
$ | SEAFOOD | This delightfully simple little restaurant, right by the bustling, mast-peppered harbor, serves traditional Norman cuisine with, as you might expect in the region’s foremost port, fish, and seafood at the top of the menu. Try the homemade fish soup or mussels in Calvados with French fries. Portions are generous. Desserts don’t always measure up to the rest of the meal—the tarte tatin (overturned apple tart) has been known to be a shade limp—but the cozy ambience and great-value €14 set menu make this the perfect quayside spot for a quick, nourishing meal. | 101 quai Bérigny | 76400 | 02–35–28–26–79 | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Closed Dec. and Thurs. out of season.
WHERE TO STAY IN FÉCAMP
Auberge de la Rouge.
$ | The Enderlins welcome you to this little inn just south of Fécamp. Guest rooms overlook the garden and are actually good-size lofts—quaint ladders lead you to balcony beds—that sleep four. The restaurant (closed Monday; no dinner Sunday) showcases modern classics by chef Paul Durel, such as scallops with ham and leek shoots, and local specialties like roast turbot, veal and mushrooms in wine, or beef with toasted thyme. Top it off, if you can, with a local favorite, soufflé à la Bénédictine. Pros: spacious rooms; family feel. Cons: away from town center; busy road outside. | 1 rue du Bois-de-Boclon, 1 km (½ mi) south of Fécamp, | 76400 | St-Léonard | 02–35–28–07–59 | www.auberge-rouge.com | 8 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator. In-hotel: restaurant, Internet terminal, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | BP.
La Ferme de la Chapelle.
$ | The charm of this former priory lies neither in the simple, comfortable guest rooms around the courtyard nor in the restaurant with its no-frills €24 menu, but rather in its outstanding location high atop the cliffs overlooking Fécamp. There’s a breathtaking, dramatic view over the entire coastline—explore it on an invigorating hike along the nearby coastal footpath. The €140 split-level family room can accommodate up to five people. Pros: spectacular setting; good-value meals. Cons: not central; often fully booked for conferences. | Côte de la Vierge | 76400 | 02–35–10–12–12 | www.fermedelachapelle.fr | 17 rooms, 5 studios | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.
ÉTRETAT
17 km (11 mi) southwest of Fécamp via D940, 88 km (55 mi) northwest of Rouen.
The plunging chalk cliffs of Etretat are so gorgeous and strange that they seem surreal at first. The crowds of camera-toting visitors, however, will bring you back to reality very quickly. But if you head for the cliffs in early morning or late evening, you’ll see what drew artists like Monet, Boudin, and Maupassant here. Chances are you’ll be just as inspired by this natural beauty as old Claude was.
Getting Here and Around
There are no trains to Étretat. Your best bet is to take the bus from either Fécamp (30 mins) or Le Havre (60 mins). Occasional trains