Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [18]
Visitor Information
Étretat Tourist Office.
| Place Maurice Guillard | 76790 | 02–35–27–05–21 | www.etretat.net.
EXPLORING ÉTRETAT
Fodor’s Choice | Falaises d’Étretat are white cliffs that are as famous in France as Dover’s are in England—and have been painted by many artists, Claude Monet chief among them. At low tide it’s possible to walk through the huge archways formed by the rocks to neighboring beaches. The biggest arch is at the Falaise d’Aval, to the south. For a breathtaking view of the whole bay, take the path up to the top of the Falaise d’Aval. From here you can hike for miles across the Manneporte Hills.or play a round of golf on one of Europe’s windiest and most scenic courses, overlooking L’Aiguille (The Needle), a 300-foot spike of rock jutting out of the sea just off the coast. To the north towers the Falaise d’Amont, topped by the chapel of Notre-Dame de la Garde.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN ÉTRETAT
Les Roches Blanches.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | The exterior of this family-owned restaurant off the beach is a post–World War II concrete eyesore. But take a table by the window with a view of the cliffs, order the superb fresh seafood (try the tuna steak or the sea bass roasted in Calvados or champagne), and you’ll be glad you came. Reservations are essential for Sunday lunch. | Rue de l’Abbé-Cochet | 76790 | 02–35–27–07–34 | MC, V | Closed Wed. and Nov.–Feb.
Domaine Saint Clair Le Donjon.
$$$–$$$$ | From the looks of this charming ivy-covered, Anglo-Norman château, it is easy to understand why Monet, Proust, Offenbach, and other greats accepted invitations here. Built overlooking Étretat by a rich Parisian couple in 1862, the Belle Époque house, replete with storybook tower, was built in a private park and affords lovely sea views. Guest rooms are spacious, comfortable, quiet, and individually furnished, with the emphasis on “individual”—vast swaths of red fabric, decorator mirrors, and antique gramophones are some flamboyant accents, while other rooms are stylish enough forMaison Française. For a spectacular view, request the Oriental Suite, the Horizon Room, or the Marjorie Room. Thomas Sakic’s dramatic cuisine, ranging from warm hare terrine to scallops and salmon in cider, is dished up in a cozy, romantic restaurant. Rooms are reserved on a half-board basis on weekends. Pros: grand architecture; gorgeous setting. Cons: pricey; strident decor in some rooms. | Chemin de St-Clair | 76790 | 02–35–27–08–23 | www.hoteletretat.com | 21 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, parking (free), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.
Dormy House.
$$–$$$ | Ideally located halfway up the Étretat cliffs, this smart, modernish hotel enjoys a spectacular perch. Set amid acres of manicured cliff-side parkland, the guest rooms are simple and comfortable, but the real beauty is right out your bedroom window, thanks to views of la mer, so wonderful they would have Debussy humming in no time. The largest room is known as the Chambre Directoire. The restaurant specializes in fresh fish and seafood platters, ranging from simple delights such as the sole stew to the full-scale symphonie of fish. Request a table near the window for a panoramic view of the coast. Pros: grand sea views; fine fish restaurant. Cons: rooms small; those in annex lack character. | Rte. du Havre | 76790 | 02–35–27–07–88 | www.dormy-house.com | 61 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.
Résidence.
¢–$ | The cheapest rooms in this picturesque 16th-century house in the heart of Étretat are pretty basic—both the bathroom and the shower are in the hallway—but the more expensive have in-room bathrooms, and one even has a hot tub. The service is friendly; the staff is young and energetic. The brasserie-type restaurant on the ground floor, La Salamandre, is rather cutting-edge