Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [46]
The Promenade Clair de Lune hugs the seacoast on its way toward the English Channel and passes in front of the small jetty used by boats crossing to St-Malo. In Dinard, the road weaves along the shore and is adorned with luxuriant palm trees and mimosa blooms, which, from July to the end of September, are illuminated at dusk with spotlights; strollers are serenaded with recorded music. The promenade really hits its stride as it rounds the Pointe du Moulinet and heads toward the sandy Plage du Prieuré, named after a priory that once stood here. River meets sea in a foaming mass of rock-pounding surf: use caution as you walk along the slippery path to the calm shelter of the Plage de l’Écluse, an inviting sandy beach bordered by the casino and numerous stylish hotels. The coastal path picks up on the west side of Plage de l’Écluse, ringing the Pointe de la Malouine and the Pointe des Étêtés before arriving at the Plage de St-Énogat.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN DINARD
Didier Méril.
$$$–$$$$ | FRENCH | Nudging right up to the beach in Dinard’s historic center, this chic restaurant serves up gourmet fare along with breathtaking sea views. Chef Méril takes his inspiration from the local bounty, with seafood front and center. Fresh-from-the-sea dishes, such as salty-sweet Cancale oysters, ricassée de langoustines, and Trilogie de poisson with lobster coulis vie with Breton specialties, like terrine paysanne au sanglier (wild boar), on four fixed-price menus. An impressive pages-long wine list, boasting 450 wines from every region imaginable, satisfies the most discerning wine snob. In warm weather, the seaside terrace is a fine place to enjoy a frosty glass of champagne or a cigar from the cave à cigars, if so inclined. For lodging, six stylish rooms come with some endearing quirks. For example, the top floor’s room No. 6 offers spectacular ocean vistas from the bed or the bathtub, as it’s smack in the center of the room. | 1 pl. du Général de Gaulle | 35800 | 02–99–46–95–74 | www.restaurant-didier-meril.com | AE, MC, V | BP.
Printania.
$–$$ | Replete with verandas, charmingly folkloric Breton wood carvings, and a low-key Napoléon III vibe, Le Printania enjoys a sweet perch right on Dinan’s Clair de Lune promenade. Many of the guest rooms face the water with “le cité corsaire”—St-Malo—looming in the distance; they’re furnished with regional touches, with fine wood chairs and original paintings, rather than prints, of local scenes. The best ones have a balcony and sea view (ask for Nos. 101, 102, 211, or 311). Seafood and regional dishes are served in the riotously colorful waterfront dining room by waitresses in regional costume. Pros: friendly, tasteful room decor; full board plan entices thanks to tempting food. Cons: sturdy recent price hikes; some rooms lack a view. | 5 av. George-V | 35800 | 02–99–46–13–07 | www.printaniahotel.com | 55 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Internet terminal | MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | FAP.
Villa Reine-Hortense.
$$$–$$$$ | All the Napoléon-III glamour of 19th-century-resort France is yours when you stay at this folie—a villa built by the Russian Prince Vlassov in homage to his “queen,” Hortense de Beauharnais (daughter of Napoléon’s beloved Joséphine and mother to Emperor Napoléon III). A magical grand salon topped with a trompe-l’oeil treillage, guest rooms with soaring, fairy-tale beds crowned with Empire-style canopies, and glamorous beach views are just some of the delights on tap here. The lucky guest who lands Room 4 will even get to bathe in Queen Hortense’s own silver-plated bathtub. Pros: high-style paradise; intimate; quirky. Cons: a bit “de trop”; une folie. | 19 rue de la Malouine | 35800 | 02–99–46–54–31 | www.villa-reine-hortense.com | 8 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: bar, some pets