Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [47]
NIGHTLIFE IN DINARD
During July and August, stretches of the Clair de Lune promenade become a nighttime son-et-lumière wonderland, thanks to spotlights and recorded music. The main nightlife activity in town is at the casino (4 bd. du Président-Wilson | 35800 | 02–99–16–30–30).
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN DINARD
For windsurfing, wander over to the Wishbone Club (Digue de l’Écluse | 35800 | 02–99–88–15–20). Boats can be rented from the Yacht Club (Promenade Clair de Lune | 35800 | 02–99–46–14–32).
PAIMPOL
92 km (57 mi) west of Cap Fréhel via D786, 45 km (28 mi) northwest of St-Brieuc.
Paimpol is one of the liveliest fishing ports in the area and a good base for exploring this part of the coast. The town is a maze of narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants, and souvenir boutiques. The harbor, where fishermen used to unload their catch from far-off seas, is its main focal point; today most fish are caught in the Channel. From the sharp cliffs you can see the coast’s famous pink-granite rocks. For centuries, but now no longer, Breton fishermen sailed to Newfoundland each spring to harvest cod—a long and perilous journey. The Fête des Terres-Neuves is a celebration of the traditional return from Newfoundland of the Breton fishing fleets; it’s held on the third Sunday in July. From Paimpol, trains go to Guingamp, and CAT buses go to St-Brieuc; both towns are on the Paris–Brest TGV line.
WHERE TO STAY IN PAIMPOL
Le K’Loys.
$–$$ | Built in the late 19th century for a prominent ship owner, this picturesque stone house nestles right up to Paimpol’s main quay, with a view over a yacht and sailboat-stocked marina. Most of the 17 rooms have harbor views, and, if you’re lucky enough to nab No. 6, breakfast can be had on your own flower-bedecked balcony. Or if you prefer to catch some moonbeams, the Capitaine room offers a glass ceiling and splendid views from the bed. Although this family-run hotel focuses mostly on comfort and coziness rather than all-out luxury, the rooms—many with fireplaces and asian rugs—are quaintly decorated with traditional Breton touches, includingclassic armoires. The L’Islandais restaurant-creperie, in an old cod fisherman’s house, offers traditional Breton fare, including a bargain €18.50 menu. Pros: afternoon tea in the glassed-in tearoom is a delight; easy walk to the beach and the old town. Cons: some rooms lack a view. | 21 Quai Morand | 22500 | 02–96–20–40–01 | www.hotel-restaurant-soiree-vrp-paimpol-cotes-d-armor.k-loys.com | 17 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed, parking (paid) | AE, MC, V | BP.
TRÉBEURDEN
46 km (27 mi) west of Paimpol via D786 and D65, 9 km (6 mi) northwest of Lannion.
Trébeurden is just one of the scenic highlights of the Côtes d’Armor, the long stretch of Brittany’s northern coast, loosely divided into two parts, the Côte d’Emeraude (Emerald Coast) and the peaceful Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coasta). A small, pleasant fishing village that is now a summer resort town, it makes a good base for exploring the rosy-hue cliffs of the Corniche Bretonne, starting with the rocky point at nearby Le Castel.
Getting Here and Around
To get to Trébeurden or Perros-Guirec you must first take the train to Plouraret-Trégor, which is found on the main Paris-Brest train line. From there, take the train to Lannion, a town 12 km (7 mi) inland. From Lanion CAT runs several buses a day to Trébeurden, along with five buses a day to Perros-Guirec, with stops at Trestraou beach and neighboring Ploumanac’h (35 mins).
Visitor Information
Trébeurden Tourist Office.
| Pl. de Crec’h Hery | 22560 | 02–96–23–51–64 | www.trebeurden.fr.
EXPLORING TRÉBEURDEN
Trébeurden is near the center of the most picturesque stretches of the Breton coastline. Take a look at the profile of the dramatic rocks off the coast near Trégastel and Perros-Guirec and use your imagination to see La Tête de Mort (Death’s Head), La Tortoise, Le Sentinel, and Le Chapeau de Wellington (Wellington’s Hat). The coastal scene changes