Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [49]
Consisting of the territory lying west of Saint-Brieuc to the Atlantic coast a short distance east of Vannes, Lower Brittany contains in abundance all things Breton, including many of the pardons and other colorful religious ceremonies that take place hereabouts. As for bright lights, Rennes, the student-fueled mind of Brittany, gives way to poets and painters, bringing a refreshing breeze to the historical heaviness of the region. On the Atlantic coast, Nantes, the working-class heart of Brittany, pumps the economy of the region and provides a bracing swig of daily Breton life. Head inland to find a landscape studded with bent trees and craggy rocks that look like they’ve been bewitched by Merlin in a bad mood.
STE-ANNE-LA-PALUD
136 km (82 mi) southwest of Frébeurden via D767 and D787.
One of the great attractions of the Brittany calendar is the celebration of a religious festival known as a village pardon, replete with banners, saintly statues, a parade, bishops in attendance, women in folk costume, a feast, and hundreds of attendees. The seaside village of Ste-Anne-la-Palud has one of the finest and most authentic age-old pardons in Brittany, held on the last Sunday in August.
Another celebrated pardon is held in early September some 40 km (25 mi) north of Ste-Anne. Pilgrims come from afar to Le Folgoët, 24 km (15 mi) northeast of Brest, to attend the town’s ceremonial procession. Many also drink from the Fontaine de Salaün, a fountain behind the church, whose water comes from a spring beneath the altar. The splendid church, known as the Basilique, has a sturdy north tower that serves as a beacon for miles around and, inside, a rare, intricately carved granite rood screen separating the choir and nave.
WHERE TO STAY IN STE-ANNE-LA-PALUD
Hôtel de la Plage.
$$$$ | This former private mansion, with its sturdy round tower, nestles in a cove on a quiet strip of sandy beach on the Bay of Douarnenez—a remote retreat perfect for long, restorative walks. Some of the comfortably furnished guest rooms face the water, as does the glass-front restaurant, where reservations are essential. After a seafood starter (scallops, oysters, or langoustines), try the sea bass with cress and asparagus, the turbot with marrow, or the duck and foie gras with maple syrup and celery. Pros: waterfront setting; top-rank restaurant. Cons: very expensive; rather formal. | 29550 | 02–98–92–50–12 | www.plage.com | 24 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, tennis court, pool, beachfront, Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Nov.–Apr. | MAP.
DOUARNENEZ
14 km (8 mi) south of Ste-Anne-la-Palud.
Douarnenez is a quaint old fishing town of quayside paths and zigzagging narrow streets. Boats come in from the Atlantic to unload their catches of mackerel, sardines, and tuna. Just offshore is the Ile Tristan, accessible on foot at low tide (guided tours only organized by the tourist office, €6), and across the Port-Rhu channel is Tréboul, a seaside resort town favored by French families.
One of the three town harbors is fitted out with a unique Port-Musée (Port Museum), which reopened in May 2006 after an extensive renovation program. Along the wharves you can visit the workshops of boat wrights, sailmakers, and other old-time craftspeople, then go aboard the historic trawlers, lobster boats, Thames barges, and a former lightship anchored alongside. On the first weekend in May you can sail on an antique fishing boat. | Pl. de l’Enfer | 29100 | 02–98–92–65–20 | www.port-musee.org | €7.50 | Mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 10–7; Apr.–mid-June and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.
WHERE TO STAY IN DOUARNENEZ
Manoir