Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [50]
$–$$ | Surrounded by extensive forested grounds, this textbook 17th-century granite Breton manor house, landmarked by a sturdy tower and filled with precious antiques, makes an enviable choice. Another plus is the fine restaurant (open to residents only), famous for its local seafood dishes. Sample Bruno Garet’s terrine de poisson chaud (warm seafood terrine) or the duo de truites de mer (poached sea trout). Guest rooms vary greatly in size, but most have terraces overlooking the peaceful country garden. Pros: charming setting; historic atmosphere. Cons: out of the way; restaurant service can be offhand. | 12 km (7 mi) northeast of Douarnenez, | 29550 | Plonévez-Porzay | 02–98–92–50–40 | www.moellien.com | 18 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator (some), Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | FAP.
Ty Mad.
$$–$$$ | In the 1920s artists and writers such as Picasso and Breton native Max Jacob frequented this small hotel in a quiet cove with beach in Tréboul. Since 2005 this landmark has been completely renovated and refitted with cool, light modern furnishings that blend perfectly with the white and exposed stone walls. Guest rooms are not large, but 11 of them have great sea views. A garden now adorns the property, and the separate house has been outfitted with a kitchen for larger groups and longer stays. Vincent Jugeau’s menu, served in the glass-enclosed restaurant, focuses on fresh produce sourced from neighboring farms and fish boats. Pros: delightful seaside setting; stylish modern decor. Cons: rooms are small and modestly equipped. | Plage St-Jean, | 29100 | Treboul | 02–98–74–00–53 | www.hoteltymad.com | 15 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | MAP.
QUIMPER
22 km (14 mi) southeast of Douarnenez via D765.
A traditional crowd-puller, the twisting streets and tottering medieval houses of Quimper furnish rich postcard material, but lovers of decorative arts head here because this is the home of Quimperware, one of the more famous variants of French hand-painted earthenware pottery. The techniques were brought to Quimper by Normands in the 17th century, but the Quimpérois customized them by painting typical local Breton scenes on the pottery. Today they remain some of the most prizes French collectibles and gifts.
Getting Here and Around
The twice-daily direct TGV travels 350 mi from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to reach Quimper’s train station, on the Avenue de la Gare, in 4 hours, 45 minutes (€90.60). Four trains each day make the 70-minute trip from Quimper to Brest (€15) and the 2-hour, 30-minute trip to Nantes (€31.40). Buses from the Gare Routière on Place Louis-Armand make infrequent connections to such destinations as Concarneau and Pont-Aven.
Visitor Information
Quimper Tourist Office (7 rue Déesse | 29000 | 02–98–53–04–05 | www.quimper-tourisme.com).
EXPLORING QUIMPER
Quimper’s lively and commercial town began life as the ancient capital of the Cornouaille province, founded, it’s said, by King Gradlon 1,500 years ago. It owes its strange name (pronounced cam-pair) to its site at the confluence (kemper in Breton) of the Odet and Steir rivers. Stroll along the banks of the Odet and through the Vieille Ville, with its cathedral. Then walk along the lively shopping street, Rue Kéréon, and down narrow medieval Rue du Guéodet (note the house with caryatids), Rue St-Mathieu, and Rue du Sallé. Have your Nikon handy.
The Cathédrale St-Corentin (Pl. St-Corentin | 29000) is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and the second-largest cathedral in Brittany (after Dol-de-Bretagne’s). Legendary King Gradlon is represented on horseback just below the base of the spires, harmonious mid-19th-century additions to the medieval ensemble. The church interior remains very much in use by fervent Quimperois, giving the candlelighted vaults a meditative air. The 15th-century stained glass is luminous. Behind the cathedral is the stately Jardin de l’Évêché (Bishop’s Garden).
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