Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [51]
In the mid-18th century Quimper sprang to nationwide attention as a pottery manufacturing center, when it began producing second-rate imitations of Rouen faïence, or ceramics with blue motifs. Today’s more colorful designs, based on floral arrangements and marine fauna, are still often hand-painted. To understand Quimper’s pottery past with the help of more than 500 examples of “style Quimper,” take one of the guided tours at the Musée de la Faïence (Earthenware Museum). | 14 rue Jean-Baptiste-Bousquet | 29000 | 02–98–90–12–72 | www.quimper-faiences.com | €4 | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Mon.–Sat. 10–6.
Local furniture, ceramics, and folklore top the bill at the Musée Départemental Breton (Brittany Regional Museum). | 1 rue du Roi-Gradlon | 29000 | 02–98–95–21–60 | €4 | June–Sept., daily 9–6; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 9–noon and 2–5.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN QUIMPER
Chez Armande.
$$ | SEAFOOD | Concarneau—22 km (14 mi) southwest of Quimper—is a busy town known for sardine-packaging, but its Vaubau-designed fortress-islet called the Ville Close is one of the most stunning sites in Brittany. The waterfront has some fine seafood restaurants; this is the oldest and one of the best. Specialties include pot-au-feu de la mer au gingembre (seafood in a clear ginger broth), St-Pierre à la fricassée de champignons (John Dory with fried mushrooms), and homard rôti en beurre de corail (roast lobster in coral butter). Try the tarte de grand-mère aux pommes (grandma’s homemade apple pie) for dessert. | 15 bis, av. du Dr-Nicolas | 29000 | 02–98–97–00–76 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Tues. and Wed., mid-Nov.–early Dec.
L’Ambroisie.
$$$ | FRENCH | This cozy little restaurant has soft-yellow walls, huge contemporary paintings, and different settings at every table. Chef Gilbert Guyon’s traditional yet nouvelle menu is seasonal; local products are chosen by hand. Try the buckwheat galette crêpe stuffed with egg and salmon; the fresh cod, mullet, or sole; the steamed sçlops with mushrooms and lemon juice; the sautéed crawfish with buckwheat; or the pigeon roasted in apple liqueur with whipped potatoes and mushrooms. The homemade desserts, like the omelet norvégienne with warm chocolate and nougat ice cream in meringue, are delicious. | 49 rue Élie-Fréron | 29000 | 02–98–95–00–02 | www.ambroisie-quimper.com | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
Les Sables Blancs.
$$$–$$$$ | The sea is backdrop and motif for this spare, modern hotel, strongly reminiscent of a cruise ship. Each of the 20 bright, modern rooms offers a terrace or balcony facing the sea, where guests can indulge in an ample Breton breakfast or simply enjoy a bracing sea breeze. One of the two large suites sports enormous windows and a wraparound terrace that seems to jut out over the sea. Smaller guest rooms are in earth tones with every high-tech convenience, and many of the sleek, serviceable bathrooms boast their own sea views. A plus here is the fine dining—with, what else, plenty of fresh seafood—offered either in the handsome dining room or, weather permitting, on a large sea-facing terrace outside the bar area. Just out front is a fine example of the white sand beaches that distinguish the Morbihan coast. Pros: miles of paths on the cliffs overlooking the sea make for lovely walks; open year-round. Cons: the relentless crashing of waves can annoy light sleepers. | 20 km (12 mi) from Quimper | 45 rue Sables Blancs | 29900 | 02–98–50–10–12 | www.hotel-les-sables-blancs.com | 20 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi, In-hotel: 2 restaurants, bar, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.
SHOPPING