Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [55]
NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN BELLE-ILE-EN-MER
Every year, from mid-July to mid-August, Belle-Ile hosts Lyrique-en-Mer (02–97–31–59–59 | www.belle-ile.net), an ambitious little festival whose heart is opera (the festival was founded by the American bass baritone, Richard Cowan) but which offers up a generous lyric menu of sacred music concerts, gospel, jazz, even the occasional sea chantey and Broadway musical number. Operas and concerts are performed by rising talents from around the world at various romantic locations around the island.
THE OUTDOORS IN BELLE-ILE-EN-MER
The ideal way to get around to the island’s 90 spectacular beaches is by bike. The best place to rent two-wheelers (and cars—this is also the island’s Avis outlet) is at Roue Libre (Pont Orgo | 56360 | 02–97–31–49–81) in Le Palais.
CARNAC
19 km (12 mi) northeast of Quiberon via D768/D781.
Visitor Information
Carnac Tourist Office.
| 74 av. des Druides | 56340 | 02–97–52–13–52 | www.ot-carnac.fr.
At the north end of Quiberon Bay, Carnac is known for its expansive beaches and its ancient stone monuments. Dating from around 4500 BC, Carnac’s menhirs remain as mysterious in origin as their English contemporary, Stonehenge, although religious beliefs and astronomy were doubtless an influence. The 2,395 megalithic monuments that make up the three alignements—Kermario, Kerlescan, and Ménec—form the largest megalithic site in the world, and are positioned with astounding astronomical accuracy in semicircles and parallel lines over about 1 km (½ mi). The site, just north of the town, is fenced off for protection, and you can examine the menhirs up close only October through March; in summer you must join a guided tour; some tours are in English (€4.50). More can be learned at the Maison des Mégalithes, a visitor center explaining the menhirs’ history and significance. | Alignements du Ménec | 56340 | 02–97–52–29–81 | carnac.monuments-nationaux.fr | Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5; May–Aug., daily 9–7.
Carnac also has smaller-scale dolmen ensembles and three tumuli (mounds or barrows), including the 130-yard-long, 38-foot-high Tumulus de St-Michel, topped by a small chapel with views of the rock-strewn countryside.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN CARNAC
Fodor’s Choice | Château de Locguénolé.
$$$–$$$$ | According to local legend, Saint Guénolé (from whom the château takes its name) took refuge on this scenic spot while fleeing the devil. Nowadays, a 19th-century château and part of the original 18th-century edifice overlook a sweeping 250-acre estate, where guests can indulge in every worldly delight. On the château’s ground floor, four stately salons remain exactly as they were when the family—who still maintains the hotel—lived here. Damask wallpaper, elegant antiques, marble fireplaces, and plenty of crystal and porcelain adorn each of the 22 guest rooms, along with stunning views over water, lush gardens, and woods. Two gorgeous suites on the first floor offer panoramic views. Superb gourmet meals can be had from several outdoor terraces but the candlelit, tapestried, and Michelin-starred dining room is hard to beat. For guests seeking a more virtuous itinerary, a “fasting” package offers every possible diversion, including walks through the estate’s ancient forests, sailing, mountain biking, swimming in a lovely outdoor pool surrounded by rose gardens, tennis, and a full range of spa