Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [56]
Hôtel Tumulus.
$$–$$$ | Dramatic views over Carnac and the Quiberon Bay have been a draw for this family-run hotel from its inception in the 1930s, along with its prime location just beneath the famous Tumulus Saint-Michel and its 16th-century chapel. Many of the modest but comfortable and well-equipped rooms have views to the bay, and those in back overlook the chapel. A small spa offers a surprising number of treatments—from thalasso therapy to seaweed wraps and massage, with good-value packages. Weary travelers can steep in the outdoor hot tub or take an invigorating swim in the pool. An airy dining room with lovely views offers excellent fare, with several reasonable prix-fixe menus, replete with fresh-caught seafood and a sophisticated wine list. Pros: close to Carnac’s famous menhirs; tasteful decors. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some with less-than-pristine carpets. | Chemin de Tumulus | 56340 | 02–97–52–08–21 | www.hotel-tumulus.com | 23 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi, safe. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi hotspot, pool, spa, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | BP.
AURAY
16 km (10 mi) north of Carnac via D119/D768, 38 km (24 mi) southeast of Lorient.
The ancient town of Auray grew up along the banks of the Loch River, best admired from the Promenade du Loch overlooking the quayside. Cross the river to explore the old, cobbled streets of the St-Goustan neighborhood. Tied alongside the quay, across the bridge, is the Goélette St-Sauveur, an old topsail schooner that once ferried coal from Wales. Today it houses a sailing museum with many unusual nautical artifacts. | Pl. St-Sauveur | 56400 | 02–97–56–63–38 | €5 | Easter–Sept., daily 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–7.
WHERE TO EAT IN AURAY
La Closerie de Kerdrain.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Ebullient chef Fernando Corfmat presides over the kitchen in this large 17th-century town-center manor draped in wisteria. His seasonal menus highlight fresh ingredients prepared in innovative ways: sea-bass carpaccio with fresh green beans in Parmesan, scallops with hazelnuts, or breast of pigeon roasted in black pepper. The sweet-and-sour lemon pie with a salade of oranges in mango juice is the perfect way to end the meal. | 20 rue Louis-Billet | 56400 | 02–97–56–61–27 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon., 3 wks in Mar., and 3 wks in Dec. No dinner Sun.
THE OUTDOORS IN AURAY
Take a cruise down the Auray River on the Navix-Vedettes du Golfe (08–25–13–21–40 | www.navix.fr); along the way you’ll discover the lovely 16th-century Château du Plessis-Kaer and the tiny, tidal fishing port of Bono tucked between the steep banks and the oyster beds of the Pô estuary.
VANNES
35 km (20 mi) east of Carnac via D768, 108 km (67 mi) southwest of Rennes.
Scene of the declaration of unity between France and Brittany in 1532, historic Vannes is one of the few towns in Brittany to have been spared damage during World War II. Though it draws visitors in droves to its wonderful vielle ville (Old Town), Vannes remains relatively untainted.
Getting Here and Around
TGVs from Paris (Gare Montparnasse) leave for Vannes twice daily (3 hrs, 20 mins; €63.80). Six trains daily (some with a change at Redon) link Vannes to Nantes (1 hr, 15 mins; €19) and trains run every hour or so between Vannes and Quimper (1 hr, €17.40). The two most useful bus companies are Cariane Atlantique and Transports Le Bayon, with frequent buses to Quiberon and Nantes (3 hrs).
Visitor Information
Vannes Tourist Office.
| 1 rue Thiers | 56000 | 02–97–47–24–34 | www.mairie-vannes.fr.
EXPLORING VANNES
The true appeal of Vannes is walking through the winding pedestrian streets, shopping at the lively outdoor market, or sipping