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coffee outdoors near the sedate harbor. Be sure to saunter through the Promenade de la Garenne, a colorful park, and admire the magnificent gardens nestled beneath the adjacent ramparts. Many of the prettiest sights are concentrated in the Old Town, hemmed in by Rue Thiers on the west and ramparts and gates to the east and south. The ramparts crumble prettily under ivy blankets and each gateway has a character all its own. Also visit the medieval wash houses and the cathedral; browse in the antiques shops in the pedestrian streets around pretty Place Henri-IV; check out the Cohue, the medieval market hall now used as an exhibition center; and take a boat trip around the scenic Golfe du Morbihan.

The Cathédrale St-Pierre boasts a 1537 Renaissance chapel, a Flamboyant Gothic transept portal, and a treasury. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | 56000 | Treasury mid-June–mid-Sept., Mon.–Sat. 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN VANNES

Régis Mahé.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Step off the train and right into this popular spot, a haven of refinement where seafood reigns. Chef Régis Mahé prefers a small, seasonal menu with local handpicked produce and fish (especially mullet) so fresh they nearly swim to the plate. For a local specialty with a twist, try the buckwheat galette crêpe filled with lobster and pigeon and served with caramelized leeks. Attention chocolate lovers: save room for the warm chocolate tart with homemade salty caramel ice cream. | 24 pl. de la Gare | 56000 | 02–97–42–61–41 | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., and part of Feb., part of Nov., and part of June.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Rochevilaine.

$$$$ | Set on the magical Pen Lan peninsula, this enchanting collection of 15th- and 16th-century Breton stone buildings resembles a tiny village; one, however, that is surrounded by terraced gardens, has a spectacular spa, and offers grand vistas of the Bay of Vilaine. Once you step through the the grand “Portail de la Verité” 13th-century entryway, the interior allures with Baroque ex-votos, Louis Treize chairs, rock-face fireplaces, and plate-glass windows. Chef Patrice Caillaut (formerly of Ledoyen and Troisgros) rules the restaurant which has a somewhat boring menu. Guest rooms sparkle with checked fabrics, veneered woods, and modern furnishings. To get your toes in the water, head to the alluring spa, the Aqua Phénica, replete with a full spectrum of seawater hydrotherapy facilities and gigantic indoor pool. Pros: stylish decor; ocean views; superb spa facilities. Cons: the staff seems to favor French guests; tons of steps from one house to another. | Pointe de Pen-Lan, 30 km (19 mi) southeast of Vannes, at tip of Pointe de Pen-Lan, | 56190 | Billiers | 02–97–41–61–61 | www.domainerochevilaine.com | 35 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, pools, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | FAP.

Kyriad.

$ | In an old, but thoroughly modernized, building, this hotel attracts a varied foreign clientele, drawn by the homey guest rooms—clean, bright, and simple, with check-pattern quilts and warm yellow walls—and the friendly and efficient staff. Claude Le Lausque serves a traditional menu in the long-established Image Sainte-Anne restaurant, stylishly refurbished with plush red carpet, gold and red wallpaper, and round-back designer chairs. You can’t go wrong with straightforward seasonal specialties like crab in phyllo pastry, grilled sole, and kidneys flambéed in Calvados. Pros: tastefully modernized; fine restaurant. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some a bit noisy. | 8 pl. de la Libération | 56000 | 02–97–63–27–36 | www.kyriad-vannes.fr | 33 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, Internet terminal | AE, MC, V | BP.

LA BAULE

72 km (45 mi) southeast of Vannes via N165 and D774.

Star of the Côte d’Amour coast and gifted with a breathtaking 5-km (3-mi) beach, La Baule is a popular resort town that can make you pay dearly for your coastal frolics. Though it once rivaled Biarritz, today tackiness has replaced sophistication, but you still can’t beat that sandy beach, or