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Hôtel Gutenberg.

$–$$ | In a 250-year-old mansion just off Place Gutenberg, this sturdy urban hotel, ideal for those on a tight budget, has rooms with fresh, old-fashioned wallpaper, chandeliers, and built-in wood cabinetry. Charming little fifth-floor lofts reveal roof timbers, and air-conditioning allows you to close the windows if the street noise gets too much. The skylighted breakfast room is inviting but sometimes a little crowded, so consider an early start or be prepared to wait for or share a table. The English-speaking staff is friendly, and the quaint location is only a few blocks from the cathedral. Pros: excellent value; old-world style with modern conveniences. Cons: some street noise; elevator doesn’t reach the top floor. | 31 rue des Serruriers | 67000 | 03–88–32–17–15 | www.hotel-gutenberg.com | 42 rooms | In-room: a/c, Internet | AE, MC, V | BP.

Hôtel Rohan.

$$$ | Across from the cathedral on a picturesque pedestrian street, this modest little hotel has a welcoming air and a marvelous sense of French style, from the Louis XV furniture to the gilt mirrors. Though swagged in rich fabrics, rooms are fully modern, with impeccable all-tile showers (but only the “superieur” rooms come with tubs). Breakfast costs extra, so an early spin around the surrounding streets might bring richer and less pricey pickings. Pros: great location; air-conditioned. Cons: small standard rooms; pricey breakfast. | 17 rue Maroquin | 67000 | 03–88–32–85–11 | www.hotel-rohan.com | 36 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.

Régent-Petite France.

$$$–$$$$ | Opposite the Ponts Couverts and surrounded by canals, this centuries-old former ice factory—replete with noble pediment and mansard roofs—has been transformed into a boldly modern luxury hotel. Delightfully set in the heart of Strasbourg’s quaintest quarter, La Petite France, the hotel welcomes you with a spacious marble vestibule, vivid graffiti art, and Le Pont Tournant, an eye-popping modernistic restaurant done up in white, pinks, and reds (enjoy its summer tables over the torrent). Upstairs, Philippe Starck–inspired sculptural room furnishings contrast sharply with the half-timber houses and roaring river viewed from nearly every room. There’s no skimping on the amenities—both the beds and the bathrooms are divine. Pros: beautiful rooms; ideal location; great service. Cons: disappointing breakfast; restaurant closed Sunday and Monday. | 5 rue des Moulins | 67000 | 03–88–76–43–43 | www.regent-petite-france.com | 72 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN STRASBOURG

The annual Festival Musica (Contemporary Music Festival | Cité de la Musique et de la Danse, 1 pl. Dauphine | 67000 | 03–88–23–46–46 | www.festival-musica.org) is held in September and October. The Opéra National du Rhin (19 pl. Broglie | 67000 | 03–88–75–48–23 | www.operanationaldurhin.fr) has a sizable repertoire.Classical concerts are staged by the Orchestre Philharmonique (Palais des Congrès | 67000 | 03–88–15–09–09 | www.philharmonique-strasbourg.com).

The Vieille Ville neighborhood east of the cathedral, along Rue des Frères, is the nightlife hangout for university students and twentysomethings; among its handful of heavily frequented bars is La Laiterie (13 rue Hohwald | 67000 | 03–88–23–72–37 | www.laiterie.artefact.org), a multiplex concert hall showcasing art, workshops, and music ranging from electronic to post-rock and reggae. Le Chalet Club(376 rte. de la Wantzenau | 67000 | 03–88–31–18–31 | www.strasbourg-by-night.com) is the biggest and most popular disco, but it’s some 10 km (6 mi) northeast of the city center.

SHOPPING IN STRASBOURG

The lively city center is full of boutiques, including chocolate shops and delicatessens selling locally made foie gras. Look for warm paisley linens and rustic homespun fabrics, Alsatian pottery, and local wines. Forming the city’s commercial