Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [95]
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Obernai | Mont-Ste-Odile | Barr | Andlau | Dambach-la-Ville | Sélestat | Haut-Koenigsbourg | Ribeauvillé | Riquewihr | Colmar
The Rhine River forms the eastern boundary of both Alsace and France. But the best of Alsace is not found along the Rhine’s industrial waterfront. Instead it’s in the Ill Valley at the base of the Vosges, southwest of cosmopolitan Strasbourg. Northwest is Saverne and the beginning of the Route du Vin, the great Alsace Wine Road, which winds its way south through the Vosges foothills, fruitful vineyards, and medieval villages that would serve well as stage sets for Rossini’s William Tell. Signs for the road help you keep your bearings on the twisting way south, and you’ll find limitless opportunities to stop at wineries and sample the local wares. The Wine Road stretches 170 km (100 mi) between Thann and Marienheim, and is easily accessible from Strasbourg or Colmar. Many of the towns and villages have designated “vineyard trails” winding between towns (a bicycle will help you cover a lot of territory). Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé—accessible by bus from Colmar and Sélestat rail stations—are connected by an especially picturesque route. Along the way, stop at any “Dégustation” sign for a free tasting and pick up brochures on the Alsace Wine Road at any tourist office.
OBERNAI
30 km (19 mi) southwest of Strasbourg via A35/N422.
Many visitors begin their saunter down the Route du Vin at Obernai, a thriving, colorful Renaissance market town named for the patron saint of Alsace. Head to the central town enclosed by the ramparts to find some particularly Nikon-friendly sites, including a medieval belfry, Renaissance well, and late-19th-century church.
Getting Here and Around
Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 67210) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains via Sélestat (€7.50) every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40)—the city at the southern end of Alsace’s Route du Vin. Change in Sélestat for omnibus services to Rosheim/Molsheim (via Obernai, €5.30). Strasbourg also has an extensive tram and bus network that includes buses to Obernai from its Gare Routière in Place des Halles.
Visitor Information
Obernai Tourist Office.
| Pl. du Beffroi | 067210 | 03–88–95–64–13 | www.obernai.fr.
EXPLORING OBERNAI
Place du Marché, in the heart of town, is dominated by the stout, square 13th-century Kapelturm Beffroi (Chapel Tower Belfry), topped by a pointed steeple flanked at each corner by frilly openwork turrets added in 1597.
An elaborate Renaissance well near the belfry, the Puits à Six-Seaux (Well of Six Buckets) was constructed in 1579; its name recalls the six buckets suspended from its metal chains.
The twin spires of the parish church of St-Pierre–St-Paul compete with the belfry for skyline preeminence. They date, like the rest of the church, from the 1860s, although the 1504 Holy Sepulchre altarpiece in the north transept is a survivor from the previous church. Other points of interest include the flower-bedecked Place de l’Étoile and the Hôtel de Ville, whose council chamber and historic balcony can be viewed.
WHERE TO STAY IN OBERNAI
La Cloche.
¢ | Stained glass, dark oak, and Hansi-like murals set the tone in this sturdy half-timber 14th-century landmark on Obernai’s market square. Rooms are well equipped and country-pretty; two double-decker duplex rooms accommodate four. In the adjoining restaurant, the excellent-value menus (€15–€21), comprising regional dishes and blackboard specials, draw locals on market days. Pros: good value; good restaurant; very friendly staff. Cons: spotty Wi-Fi coverage; doesn’t accept American Express. | 90 rue du Général-Gouraud | 67210