Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [149]
COMPTOIR DE LA GASTRONOMIE Map French €€
01 42 33 31 32; www.comptoir-gastronomie.com, in French; 34 rue Montmartre, 1er; starters €7-14, mains €16-22; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm; Les Halles
This striking Art Nouveau establishment, here since 1894, has an elegant dining room where dishes are constructed around delicacies such as foie gras, truffles and caviar. The adjoining épicerie fine (specialist grocer; 6am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) stocks a scrumptious array of gourmet goods to take home.
CAFÉ BEAUBOURG Map French, International €€
01 48 87 63 96; 100 rue St-Martin, 4e; starters €8-14, mains €15-22; 8am-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; Châtelet-Les Halles
This upbeat minimalist café across from the Centre Pompidou has been drawing a well-heeled crowd for breakfast and brunch (from €13 to €24) on its terrace for over 20 years now. Bonus: there’s always free entertainment on the parvis (large square) just opposite.
LE PETIT MÂCHON Map French, Lyonnais €€
01 42 60 08 06; 158 rue St-Honoré, 1er; starters €7-12.50, mains €14-22; lunch & dinner to 11pm Tue-Sun; Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Close to the Louvre, this upbeat bistro serves some of the best Lyons-inspired specialities in town and the welcome is always warm. It takes its name from a Burgundian variety of galette des rois (kings’ cake), a puff pastry filled with frangipane cream that is eaten at Epiphany (Twelfth night; Click here).
DJAKARTA BALI Map Indonesian €€
01 45 08 83 11; www.djakarta-bali.com; 9 rue Vauvilliers, 1er; starters €10.50-14.50, mains €11-22; dinner to 11pm Tue-Sun; Louvre Rivoli
OK, it might look like Hollywood’s idea of an Indonesian restaurant with all those Balinese handicrafts adorning the walls, but this is the real thing, run by the progeny of an Indonesian diplomat exiled when President Sukarno was overthrown in 1967. If you think you can handle it, order one of four rijstafels (Dutch for ‘rice table’), priced from €20 to €45: they are feasts of between seven and 10 courses that just won’t stop coming. Those with nut allergies beware: peanuts seem to appear in one form or another in most dishes.
LE TAMBOUR Map French, Bistro €€
01 42 33 06 90; 41 rue Montmartre, 2e; starters €7-17, mains €13-20; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner to 1.30am Sun & Mon, to 3.30am Tue-Sat; Étienne Marcel or Sentier
‘The Drummer’ is a Paris mecca for night owls, with generously long hours and friendly service. It attracts a mixed and somewhat boisterous crowd. You’ll enjoy the recycled street furniture, straightforward cuisine and the cocky staff. The café-bar is open noon to 6am Tuesday to Saturday and 6pm to 6am Sunday and Monday.
BAAN BORAN Map Thai €€
01 40 15 90 45; www.baan-boran.com, in French; 43 rue de Montpensier, 1er; starters €8-18, mains €12-20; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre or Pyramides
The fare at this eatery, just opposite the Théâtre du Palais Royal, is provincial Thai and about as authentic as you’ll find in this part of Paris. It makes a convenient stop before or after touring the Louvre. There are several vegetarian dishes, priced between €8 and €10. If you just want something quick and on the trot, visit Baan Boran à Emporter (Map; 01 40 13 96 70; 103 rue St-Honoré, 1er; dishes €4-6.50, menu €8.90; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; Châtelet or Pont Neuf), which has takeaway service and counter seating.
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top picks
PLACES FOR BRUNCH
Joe Allen
Scoop (right
Le Café qui Parle
Le Chéri-Bibi
Le Sporting
Le Viaduc Café
Alef-Bet
Le Baba Bourgeois
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LE LOUP BLANC Map International €€€
01 40 13 08 35; www.loup-blanc.com; 42 rue Tiquetonne, 2e; veg dishes €12.50-14.50, mains €13.50-19.50; dinner to midnight Sun-Thu, to 12.30am Fri, to 1am Sat, brunch 11am-4.30pm Sun; Étienne Marcel
Some inventive and inexpensive dishes are on offer at ‘The White Wolf’: meat and fish marinated with herbs and spices (eg cardamom, star anise, marjoram) and then grilled. For accompaniments, you can choose from up to four vegetables and grains, according to your appetite and the season: