Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [150]
WILLI’S WINE BAR Map French, Bistro €€€
01 42 61 05 09; www.williswinebar.com; 13 rue des Petits Champs, 1er; starters €9, mains €18, menus €19 & €25 (lunch only), €32 & €34; lunch & dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Bourse
This civilised and very convivial wine bar-cum-bistro was opened in 1980 by British expats who introduced the wine-bar concept to Paris. The food by chef François Yon is still excellent, the wines (especially Côtes du Rhône) well chosen and Willi’s legendary status lives on – and deservedly so.
CAFÉ DE L’ÉPOQUE Map French, Café €€
01 42 33 40 70; 12 rue Croix des Petits Champs, 1er; starters €5.50-14, mains €15-18; lunch daily, dinner to midnight Mon-Sat; Louvre-Rivoli
A lovely old relic of the belle époque when the passages couverts were the places to shop, this café full of old mirrors, banquettes and a heated terrace is a popular location for period films. It can be entered from the covered passage itself or the terrace facing rue du Bouloi.
L’ARBRE À CANNELLE Map French, Tearoom €€
01 45 08 55 87; 57 passage des Panoramas, 2e; dishes €7-17.80; 11.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; Grands Boulevards
The ‘Cinnamon Tree’ is a lovely tearoom with tartes salées (savoury pies; from €7), excellent salads (€7 to €9.80), great plats du jour (€12) and red-fruit crumble for dessert. The original 19th-century décor is worth a visit in itself; seating is on the ground and 1st floors.
SAVEURS VÉGÉT’HALLESMap Vegetarian €€
01 40 41 93 95; 41 rue des Bourdonnais, 1er; starters & salads €4.80-9.80, mains €11.20-17.20, menus €9.80 & 12.50 (lunch only), €15.30; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm Mon-Sat; Châtelet
Occupying the former premises of another vegetarian restaurant, La Victoire Suprême du Cœur, this vegan eatery is egg-free and offers quite a few mock-meat dishes, such as poulet végétal aux champignons (‘chicken’ with mushrooms) and escalope de seitan (wheat gluten ‘escalope’). No alcohol is served.
SCOOP Map International €€
01 42 60 31 84; www.scoopcafe.com, in French; 154 rue St-Honoré, 1er; dishes €10.90-16.90; 11am-7pm; Louvre-Rivoli
This erstwhile American-style ice-cream parlour has been making quite a splash for its excellent wraps, burgers, tarts and soups and central, very fashionable location. The upstairs lounge is made for a tête-à-tête, and Sunday brunch (11.30am to 4pm) includes pancakes with maple syrup.
LE VÉRO DODAT Map French €€
01 45 08 92 06; 1st fl, 19 Galerie Véro Dodat, 2 rue du Bouloi, 1er; mains €13.50, menu €16.50; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm Tue-Sat; Louvre-Rivoli
This friendly little place in the heart of the Véro Dodat passage couvert has seating both downstairs and upstairs. At lunchtime it’s especially popular with workers from the nearby Bourse de la Commerce, who come for the reasonably priced plats du jour.
KUNITORAYA Map Japanese €€
01 47 03 33 65; www.kunitoraya.com, in French; 39 rue Ste-Anne, 1er; dishes €8.50-15, menu €12.50 (lunch only); 11.30am-10pm; Pyramides
With seating on two floors, this simple and intimate place has a wide and excellent range of Japanese shop-made noodle dishes and set lunches and dinners. If headed here, aim to arrive before 1pm for lunch or before 8pm for dinner to beat the crowds.
HIGUMA Map Japanese €€
01 58 62 49 22; 163 rue St-Honoré, 1er; mains €7-12.50, menus €10 & €11.50; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm; Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
This authentic, no-nonsense Japanese noodle shop offers great value, particularly for its location opposite the Comédie Française. We love the gyoza (dumplings) and the fried noodles with pork and vegetables.
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SELF-CATERING
Rue Montorgueil, one of the busiest and best-stocked rues commerçantes (commercial streets, not unlike open-air markets) in Paris, is north of Les Halles.
There are several supermarkets around Forum des Halles. Other