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Some people think this is the most authentic Senegalese restaurant in Paris, and with the CSAO Boutique & Gallery up the road, it does feel like a little bit of Africa has fallen onto a quiet Marais street.

WALY FAY Map African, Creole €€

01 40 24 17 79; 6 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 11e; starters €6-8, mains €10-15; dinner to midnight Mon-Sat, brunch noon-5pm Sun; Charonne

This easygoing ‘loungin’ restaurant’ attracts a rather hip crowd for the African food with a West Indian twist served to the sounds of soul and jazz. For starters, the pepe (fish soup) is deliciously smooth and highly spiced. For mains, the tiéboudienne (rice, fish and vegetables) and fish n’dole are recommended by the staff, but try instead the copious mafé (beef simmered in peanut sauce) served with rice and aloko (fried plantain bananas). The distressed walls and low lighting add warmth to the surrounds.

AU TROU NORMAND Map French €€

01 48 05 80 23; 9 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; starters €6-9.50, mains €8.50-14.50. menus €12.50 & €15 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 11.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; Oberkampf

Even under a younger and more dynamic team, ‘The Norman Hole’ remains the bargain-basement cafétéria of the 11e arrondissement. In keeping with the surrounds, the dishes served are simple and portions fairly generous. There are dozens of starters to choose from; main courses include confit de canard (duck confit) brandade de morue (cod puréed with potatoes) and various cuts of beef (tournedos, steak tartare etc) served with chips made on the premises.

TAEKO Map Japanese €€

01 48 04 34 59; 39 rue de Bretagne, 3e; menus €8.90-12.50; 9am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun; Marais

Just about the last thing you would expect to find in the Marché des Enfants Rouges, one of the oldest markets in Paris, is this mom-and-pop Japanese eatery. There’s sushi and sashimi and salmon tartar to start and delightful warm dishes like codfish balls and chicken cooked with soy sauce. Sit at the communal table near the entrance – if there’s room!

BREAKFAST IN AMERICA Map American, Deli €€

01 42 72 40 21; www.breakfast-in-america.com; 4 rue Malher, 4e; meals €6.50-12; 8.30am-11.30pm daily; St-Paul

This American-style diner, complete with red banquettes and Formica surfaces, is as authentic as you’ll find outside the US of A. Breakfast, served all day and with free coffee refills, starts at €6.50, and there are generous burgers, chicken wings and fish and chips (€7.95 to €11.50). There’s also a Latin Quarter branch (Map; 01 43 54 50 28; 17 rue des Écoles, 5e; Cardinal Lemoine) open the same hours.

BAGEL STORE Map American, Kosher €€

01 44 78 06 05; 31 rue de Turenne, 3e; dishes €3.60-11.50; 9am-7pm Sun-Thu, 9am-3, to 7pm Fri (depending on season); Chemin Vert

This small place just up from the Marais is a great spot if you want something sur le pouce (literally ‘on the thumb’, meaning on the run). There are soups, salads, plates of charcuterie and, of course, its signature bagels with a more than a dozen different fillings.

GRAND APPÉTIT Map Vegetarian €€

01 40 27 04 95; 9 rue de la Cerisaie, 4e; soups €3-4, dishes €5-11; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 9pm Mon-Wed; Bastille or Sully Morland

Set back from Bastille in a small, quiet street, this place offers light fare such as miso soup and cereals plus strength-building bols garnis (bowls of rice and mixed vegetables) and assiettes (platters) for those with a grand appétit (big appetite). The menu features delicious, filling dishes served with 100% organic cereals, raw and cooked vegetables and seaweed. Next door there’s an excellent organic and macrobiotic grocery store ( 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri).

LA PERLA Map Mexican €€

01 42 77 59 40; 26 rue François Miron, 4e; starters €6.10-9.10, mains €8.50-10.70, menu €9.90 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to midnight daily; St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville

A Californian-style Mexican bar and restaurant with excellent guacamole (€7), nachos (from €6.10) and quesadillas