Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [161]
PARIS HANOI Map Vietnamese €
01 47 00 47 59; 74 rue de Charonne, 11e; starters €3.50-8, mains €8.50-10.50; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm daily; Charonne
This upbeat, very yellow restaurant is an excellent place to come for pho (soup noodles, usually with beef) and shrimp noodles. Judging from the clientele, the local Vietnamese community thinks so, too.
CRÊPES SHOW Map French, Breton €
01 47 00 36 46; 51 rue de Lappe, 11e; crepes & galettes €3-9.80, menu €8.90 (lunch only); lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Ledru Rollin
This unpretentious little restaurant specialises in sweet crepes (€3 to €7.60) and savoury buckwheat galettes (pancakes; €3.10 to €9.20). OK, they may not be the most authentic in town, but the location is convenient and the welcome, warm. There are lots of vegetarian choices, including great salads from around €5.
CHEZ SÉBASTIEN Map Turkish €
01 42 78 58 62; 22 passage Vendôme, 3e; dishes €4.80-8.90; 11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; République
This simple little Turkish café on two levels in a scruffy passage south of place de la République is just the ticket if you’re looking for something cheap, filling and tasty to eat ‘on the thumb’ as the French say. Try any of the meze or the kebabs, especially the Iskender kebab, lamb slices served with pide bread and yogurt.
CRÊPERIE BRETONNE Map French, Breton €
01 43 55 62 29; 67 rue de Charonne, 12e; starters €3.70-7.60, crepes & galettes €2.40-8.50; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11.30pm Mon-Sat; Charonne
Head here if you fancy savoury buckwheat galettes – try the ham, cheese and egg complète – or a sweet crepe and wash it down with dry cidre de Rance (Rance cider; €6.20 for 50cL) served in a teacup (as is traditional). The Breton paraphernalia and B&W photos will keep you occupied if there’s a lull in the chatter.
L’AS DE FELAFEL Map Jewish, Kosher €
01 48 87 63 60; 34 rue des Rosiers, 4e; dishes €5-7; noon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 5pm Fri; St-Paul
This has always been our favourite place for those deep-fried balls of chickpeas and herbs (€5 takeaway, €6.50 sit down). It’s always packed, particularly at weekday lunch, so avoid that time if possible.
PATATI PATATA Map International, Café €
01 48 05 94 90; 51 rue de Lappe, 11e; dishes €4.90-6.80, menu €7.50; 11.30am-3am Mon-Sat; Bastille or Ledru Rollin
If you’re looking for something cheap and filling at almost any time of the day, visit this simple little caff with Formica tables that dispenses pommes de terre au four (baked or jacket potatoes) with toppings to the appreciative masses of Bastille.
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ALSO RECOMMENDED
Bagel’s Club (Map; 01 40 29 00 91; 24 rue Réaumur, 3e; bagels & sandwiches €5-7.50, salads €7-10; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; Arts et Métiers). This place in the northern Marais serves glatt kosher sandwiches, bagels and snacks under the supervision of the Paris Beth Din.
Da Jia Le (Map; 01 48 87 02 46; 37 rue au Maire, 3e; dishes €3-16, menu €7.50; lunch & dinner to 10.30am; Arts et Métiers). Don’t cross town to eat noodles or dumplings here but if you’re in the neighbourhood of Paris’ original Chinatown and need an Asian fix, the ‘Big Happy House’ will oblige nicely and put a smile on your face.
La Plancha (Map; 01 48 05 20 30; 34 rue Keller, 11e; tapas €8, mains €9-16; dinner to 1.30am Tue-Sat; Bastille) This tiny Spanish-Basque bodega (note the pelota baskets and bullfighting photos) serves up the best tapas in the neighbourhood till the wee hours.
Le Coude Fou (Map; 01 42 77 15 16; www.lecoudefou.com, in French; 12 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4e; starters €8-12, mains €16.50-18.50, menus €16.50 & €19.50; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner to midnight daily; Hôtel de Ville) Long-term fixture in the heart of the Marais serves cuisine traditionelle in a convivial bistro decorated with murals celebrating wine and the good life.
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