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SELF-CATERING

Markets in the Marais and Bastille area include the incomparable (and open-air) Marché Bastille.

There are a number of food shops and Asian delicatessens on the odd-numbered side of rue St-Antoine, 4e (Map; St-Paul), as well as several supermarkets. Closer to Bastille there are lots of food shops along rue de la Roquette (Map; Voltaire or Bastille) towards place Léon Blum.

Supermarkets include: Ed l’Épicier (Map; 80 rue de Rivoli, 4e; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; Hôtel de Ville), Franprix Marais (Map; 135 rue St-Antoine, 4e; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; St-Paul), Franprix Bretagne branch (Map; 49 rue de Bretagne, 3e; 8.30am-9pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; Arts et Métiers), Franprix (Map; 87 rue de la Verrerie, 4e; 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; Hôtel de Ville), Monoprix (Map; basement, 71 rue St-Antoine, 4e; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; St-Paul), Monoprix Bastille branch (Map; 97 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 11e; 9am-9.45pm Mon-Sat; Ledru Rollin), Supermarché G20 (Map; 81-83 rue de la Verrerie, 4e; 8.30am-8.30pm; Hôtel de Ville), Supermarché G20 Bastille (Map; 115 rue St-Antoine, 4e; 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; St-Paul), and the late-opening Monop’ (Map; 62-64 rue de la Roquette, 11e; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; Voltaire).

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THE ISLANDS

Famed more for its ice cream than dining options, Île St-Louis is a pricey place to eat, although there are a couple of fine places worth a brunch or lunchtime munch with, depending on which you choose, some great street entertainment (Click here) thrown in for free. As for Île de la Cité, forget it – eating spots are almost nonexistent.

MON VIEIL AMI Map French, Alsatian €€€

01 40 46 01 35; 69 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; menus €15 (lunch only) & €41; lunch Wed-Sun, dinner to 10.15pm Tue-Sun; Pont Marie

You’re treated like an old friend – thus the name – from the minute you enter this sleek black bistro in one of Paris’ most sought-after neighbourhoods. The pâté in pastry crust is a fabulous starter and any of the Alsatian mains are worth exploring. The chocolate tart is the pick of the desserts.

SORZA Map International €€€

01 43 54 78 62; www.restaurant-sorza.fr, in French; 51 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; starters €11-15, mains €16-40, 2-/3-course menu incl wine €18/22; noon-10.30pm daily; Pont Marie

It’s all very trendy at this black-and-red cube where a buoyant crowd dines well any time of day. Its weekend brunches (€18) ooze health-conscious ingredients, as does its stylish Italianate cuisine. We ate an octopus salad, followed by foie gras risotto and French-baked panettone with caramelised pears. Should hunger not have struck yet, enjoy a drink at the flashy orange neon bar.

BRASSERIE DE L’ÎLE ST-LOUIS Map French, Brasserie €€

01 43 54 02 59; 55 quai de Bourbon, 4e; starters €10-15, mains €17.50; 6pm-1am Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Tue; Pont Marie

Founded in 1870, this riverside brasserie enjoys a spectacular location on the Seine just across the footbridge (prime busking spot) between Île de St-Louis and Île de la Cité. Feast on old faithfuls like choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with meat), jarret (veal shank), cassoulet and onglet de bœuf (prime rib of beef) or simply revel in the riverside location over a coffee/beer/Berthillon ice cream (opposite).

LES FOUS DE L’ÎLE Map French, Tearoom €€

01 43 25 76 67; 33 rue des Deux Ponts, 4e; starters €6.50-9, mains €14, menu €15 (lunch), €19 & €25; noon-11pm Tue-Sat, to 7pm Sun; Pont Marie

Innovative café-style dishes served from an open kitchen into a relaxed but arty setting ensure this friendly, down-to-earth salon de thé and restaurant is always busy. Dining is around old wooden tables and there’s loads to look at, not least some cutting-edge photography and art shows when it moonlights as exhibition space. Our favourite meal: stuffed mussels with caramelised almonds, followed by roast lamb in a rosemary sauce.

LE FLORE EN L’ÎLE Map French, Tearoom €€

01 43 29 88 27; 42 quai d’Orléans, 4e; snacks €8, lunch €14; 8am-1am daily; Pont Marie

A tourist crowd piles into this excellent people-watching spot for