Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [184]
REUAN THAI Map Thai €€
01 43 55 15 82; 36 rue de l’Orillon, 11e; starters €5-13, mains €8-18, menu €8 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 10.30pm daily; Belleville
This fragrant place offers some of the most authentic Thai food in Paris and has all your favourite Thai dishes, including soups. About a half-dozen of the choices are vegetarian. Décor is on the kitsch side, but we weren’t here for the figurines and the bolsters piled up almost to the ceiling.
BISTRO FLORENTIN Map Italian €€
01 43 55 57 00; 40 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; starters €8.50-15, mains €14-17, menu €13 (lunch only); lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Parmentier
Expect excellent Italian fare amidst cosy surroundings: grilled, finely seasoned aubergine for starters, tiramisu as light as a feather for dessert and, between those two courses, a wide choice of mains and pastas (€12 to €17). The penne à la crème d’artichauts (penne with cream and artichokes; €13) is superb as is the ravioli à la ricotta et aux épinards, sauce aux champignons (spinach and cheese ravioli with a mushroom sauce). Pizzas are €8 to €13.
ASIANWOK Map Asian €€
01 43 57 63 24; 63 rue Oberkampf, 11e; dishes €13.80-15.20, menu €18.50; lunch & dinner to 10pm Mon-Sat; Parmentier
We can’t get enough of the wonderful stir-fries, big salads and ample platters served at this pan-Asian eatery that has opened recently in an vintage bar-café along trendy rue Oberkampf. The welcome from the young Asian staff is always warm and the two-course formule (available any time) a snip at €18.50.
L’AVE MARIA Map Fusion €€
01 47 00 61 73; 1 rue Jacquard, 11e; dishes €12-15; dinner to midnight daily; Parmentier
This chic and colourful canteen combines the flavours of the southern hemisphere and creates hearty, hybrid and harmonious dishes. You might be treated to West African mafé de poulet fermier (farm chicken simmered in peanut sauce) or the Amazonian fish and chips, which is of no mean size. Tropical fruit, unknown wild grasses, and heavenly vegetation provide a lush garnish and an extra touch of exoticism. The music livens up towards midnight and on to 1 or 2am.
LE POROKHANE Map African, Senegalese €€
01 40 21 86 74; www.leporokhane.com, in French; 3 rue Moret, 11e; menu €15; dinner to 2am daily; Ménilmontant or Parmentier
A large dining room in hues of ochre and terracotta, this cheapie is a popular meeting place for Senegalese artists. The clientele has un peu tendance show-biz, we’re told – and live kora (a traditional string instrument) music is not unusual at the weekend. Try the tiéboudienne, yassa or mafé.
TAI YIEN Map Chinese €€
01 42 41 44 16; 5 rue de Belleville, 19e; starters €3.90-6.40, mains €7.90-11.40; lunch & dinner to midnight daily; Belleville
This is usually where we eat when we are looking for a fix of rice or noodles, especially late in the evening. It’s a Hong Kong–style ‘steam restaurant’ and the real McCoy: it’s hard to imagine better char siu (barbecued pork) in this part of Paris.
DONG HUONG Map Vietnamese €
01 43 38 29 42; 14 rue Louis Bonnet; dishes €5.50-9.50; lunch & dinner to 10pm Wed-Mon; Belleville
Despite a name that sounds like a Spanish Lothario, this no-frills Vietnamese noodle- shop-cum-restaurant serves up great bowls of pho to rooms full of appreciative regulars. The fact that the regulars are all Asian (and mainly Vietnamese) and the food comes out so fast is a testament to its authenticity and freshness.
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SELF-CATERING
Supermarkets close to these two areas include Franprix Jean-Pierre Timbaud branch (Map; 23 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; 8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun; Oberkampf) and Franprix Jules Ferry branch (Map; 28 blvd Jules Ferry, 11e;