Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [185]
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GARE DE LYON, NATION & BERCY
The waterfront southwest of Gare de Lyon has got a new lease on life in recent years. The development of the old wine warehouses in Bercy Village attract winers and diners till the wee hours. There are loads of decent restaurants on the roads fanning out from huge place de la Nation.
L’OULETTE Map French, Southwest €€€
01 40 02 02 12; www.l-oulette.com; 15 place Lachambeaudie, 12e; starters €16-30, mains €26-39, menus €45, with wine €51; lunch & dinner to 10.15pm Mon-Fri; Cour St-Émilion
A distant relative of the Bistrot de l’Oulette near Bastille, this is a lovely (and pricey) restaurant with a terrace overlooking a pretty church in a rather dreary neighbourhood. Owner-chef Marcel Baudis’ menu du saison (seasonal menu) might include soupe de poisson à la crème de coquillages au safran (fish soup with saffron cream) and la chartreuse de queue de bœuf braisée aux poivrons (ox tail braised with leeks).
LA GAZZETTA Map French €€€
01 43 47 47 05; www.lagazzetta.fr; 29 rue de Cotte, 12e; starters €10-17, mains €20-26, menus €14 (lunch only) €34 & €45; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Ledru Rollin
A distant relative of the now defunct (and much missed China Club) this contemporary French bistro is as comfortable producing dishes like scallops with cress and milk-fed lamb confit as it is mini anchovy pizzas. The lunchtime menu is excellent value and the welcome especially warm.
LE SQUARE TROUSSEAU Map French €€€
01 43 43 06 00; 1 rue Antoine Vollon, 12e; starters €7-12, mains €19-26, menus €21 & €25 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 11.30pm Tue-Sat; Ledru Rollin
This vintage (c 1900) bistro with etched glass, zinc bar and polished wood panelling is comfortable rather than trendy and attracts a jolly, mixed clientele. Most people come to enjoy the lovely terrace overlooking a small park. Next door is the less-formal La Cave du Square (menus €12-20; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm Tue-Sat), where you can have two- or three-course meals or even pick up that bottle of Touraine you enjoyed so much over lunch next door.
LES AMIS DE MESSINA Map Italian, Sicilian €€€
01 43 67 96 01; 204 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 12e; starters €8.50-13.90, mains €17.50-24.90; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11.30pm Mon-Sat; Faidherbe Chaligny
The décor of this wonderful little neighbourhood trattoria is stylish, with clean lines, an open kitchen and the inevitable Italian football pennant. For starters, try the tortino di melanzane (eggplant casserole) or share a mixed antipasto (€19.80). For mains, the escalope farcie aux oignons, jambon et fromage (veal escalope stuffed with onions, ham and cheese) is a huge hit, or go for any of the exquisite Sicilian pastas (€13.50 to €16.50).
L’ÉBAUCHOIR Map French €€
01 43 42 49 31; 43-45 rue de Cîteaux, 12e; starters €8-15, mains €17-23; menus €11.50 & €13.50 (lunch only) & €24; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Faidherbe Chaligny
This convivial, one-time workers’ eatery attracts a loyal clientele who mix with an ‘outside’ crowd who have discovered it (and clearly forced up the prices). The usual menu of bistro food is well prepared and dishes such as marinated herrings, crème de lentilles au Beaufort (creamed lentils with Beaufort cheese) and foie de veau au miel (veal liver with honey sauce) keep customers coming back.
SARDEGNA A TAVOLA Map Italian, Sardinian €€
01 44 75 03 28; 1 rue de Cotte, 12e; starters & pasta €10-26, mains €16-22; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Ledru Rollin
‘Sardinia at the Table’ claims it will introduce you to ‘les saveurs, les couleurs et les odeurs de la Méditerranée’ (the flavours, colours and fragrances of the Mediterranean) and you barely have to walk though the door for the last two. But stick around for the flavours and you won’t be disappointed. Try the poêlon (pot) of mixed seafood cooked with parsley, tomatoes and garlic and the distinctly Sardinian spaghetti with bottarga (cured