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ATHANOR Map Romanian €€

01 43 43 49 15; 4 rue Crozatier, 12e; starters €8-12, mains €15-21, menu €23; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm Tue-Sat; Reuilly Diderot

It’s not easy to get a fix of Romanian cuisine in Paris, but Athanor can provide. The décor (puppets, red curtains, old carpets) is theatrical in the extreme; grab a vodka and tune in to the baroque music. Try the grilled blinis with tarama (fish-roe dip) and herrings in cream. Seasoned soup of freshwater river fish (€12) is the speciality of the house, though you mustn’t miss the sarmale (stuffed cabbage or grape leaves), the national dish.

LE VIADUC CAFÉ Map International, Café €€€

01 44 74 70 70; 43 av Daumesnil, 12e; starters €7.50-16, mains €14-20, menu €15.50 (lunch only) & €20.50; 9am-2am; Gare de Lyon

This New York–style café-bar with a terrace in one of the glassed-in arches of the Viaduc des Arts is an excellent spot to while away the early hours and enjoy brunch (€26), with live jazz from noon to 4pm on Sundays from mid-June to mid-September. Plats du jours are excellent value at €12/15 by day/night.

LE VINÉA CAFÉ Map French, Café €€

01 44 74 09 09; 26-28 cour St-Émilion, 12e; starters €4.50-14.50, mains €10.90-20, menus €14.50 & €18 (lunch only); 9am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Cour St-Émilion

The anchor tenant – or so it would seem – of the cour St-Émilion, this is a delightful wine bar-restaurant with a lovely terrace to the back facing place des Vins de France. There’s live music some nights and a popular brunch (€23) from noon to 4pm on Sunday.

L’ENCRIER Map French, Bistro €€

01 44 68 08 16; www.enoteca.fr, in French; 55 rue Traversière, 12e; starters €5.50-11, mains €10-19, menus €14 (lunch only) & €19-33; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Ledru Rollin or Gare de Lyon

Always heaving but especially at lunch, ‘The Inkwell’ attracts punters with its classic salmon assiette de foie gras and less-common dishes like cervelle des canuts (a herbed cheese from Lyons). To follow, try the bar entier grillé (whole grilled bass) or delicate joues de cochon aux épices (pig’s cheeks with spices). A variety of set menus, an open kitchen, exposed beams and a large picture window make this a winner.

SWANN ET VINCENT Map Italian €€

01 43 43 49 40; 7 rue St-Nicolas, 12e; starters €6.50-12, mains €13-18, menu €15.90 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 11.45pm; Ledru Rollin

If you’re visiting this fine restaurant, ask for a table in the front room, which will hopefully be awash with sunlight. Unpretentious French staff can help you select from the huge blackboard, where at least two of the starters, pastas and main dishes change every day. Go slow on the complimentary basket of olive-and-sweet-herb bread, though; you need to leave room for the tiramisu (€6.50). And, if you must know, Swann and Vincent, whose larger-than-life portraits face you through the front window opposite at No 14, are the children of the owner.

KHUN AKORN Map Thai €€

01 43 56 20 03; 8 av de Taillebourg, 11e; starters €10-14, mains €15-17; lunch & dinner to 11pm Tue-Sun; Nation

This Thai eatery near place de la Nation is an oasis of sophistication and good taste – in every sense. Among the traditional dishes, the tom yum, and the beef and chicken satays with scrumptious peanut sauce are outstanding. More innovative offerings include fruits de mer grillés sauce barbecue maison (grilled seafood with barbecue sauce) and the larmes du tigre (‘tears of the tiger’; grilled fillet of beef marinated in honey and herbs). In fine weather, try the terrace upstairs.

COMME COCHONS Map French €€

01 43 42 43 36; 135 rue de Charenton, 12e; starters €7-14, mains €14-17, menus €12 & €15 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to 11pm; Gare de Lyon

You may not be attracted by the name but the excellent traditional dishes and the sunny terrace at ‘Like Pigs’ will undoubtedly change your mind. This bistro is like a page out of the past – only the contemporary paintings on the wall by local artists will keep you in the present. Among the specialities