Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [206]
LE WEPLER Map Café
01 45 22 53 24; 14 Place de Clichy, 18e; 8am-1am; Place de Clichy
Though this large café-brasserie founded in 1892 is celebrated for its oysters, we go across the road to Charlot, Roi des Coquillages for our bivalves and to the Wepler to sit in the large covered terrace and enjoy the hubbub and scenery of Place de Clichy. Great people-watching; friendly service.
Return to beginning of chapter
OPÉRA & GRANDS BOULEVARDS
At times Haussmann’s windswept boulevards can be traffic-clogged and as a result feel unwelcoming, but some excellent bars stand out along the main axes and in the side streets. There are some interesting bars near the Bourse (stock exchange) and Opéra, catering mainly to the trader/corporate crowds. Another nocturnal niche is rue Montmartre in the Sentier district, with a few trendy bars and clubs.
O’SULLIVAN’S Map Pub
01 40 26 73 41; 1 blvd Montmartre, 2e; 10am-5am Sun-Thu, to 7am Fri & Sat; Grands Boulevards
From the outside this looks like just another supermarket-chain Irish pub, but O’Sullivan’s is so much more. It’s hugely popular thanks to its prominent location and friendly vibe. The spacious surrounds are always packed for big sporting events, plus concerts (jazz, rock, pop, Irish music) on Thursdays and DJs at the weekend. Different available areas such as the 1st floor and the outdoor terrace mean you can (almost) always find a tranquil place to chat.
Return to beginning of chapter
GARE DU NORD, GARE DE L’EST & RÉPUBLIQUE
Canal St-Martin offers a trendy bohemian atmosphere and wonderful summer nights (and days) in casual canal-side cafés. The proliferation of bars and cafés in the 10e is gradually joining up this area with Belleville and Ménilmontant (Click here). There are also a few decent bars around Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est.
DE LA VILLE CAFÉ Map Bar
01 48 24 48 09; 34 blvd de Bonne Nouvelle, 10e; 11am-2.30am; Bonne Nouvelle
Another success story from the founders of Café Charbon, this grand erstwhile brothel has an alluring, slightly confused mix of restored history (original mosaic tiles, distressed walls) and modern design. Between the high-ceilinged restaurant, the extensive terrace and the bar/lounge areas, you’re sure to find your niche somewhere. DJs play most nights, making it a quality ‘before’ venue for the nearby Rex Club.
MOTOWN BAR Map Bar
01 46 07 09 79; 81-83 blvd de Strasbourg, 10e; closed 1am-6pm Tue & Wed; Gare de l’Est
This almost 24-hour place – it’s open continuously except for two early-morning gaps at the start of the week – is the venue of choice in the wee hours when you have a thirst and a few bob but, alas, no friends. You can drink at almost any time of day, and eat (mains €7.50 to €11.50) until 11pm; live singers croon on certain nights. There’s a warm and festive feel, and the staff and the patrons are friendly.
CAFÉ CHÉRI(E) Map Bar, Café
01 42 02 02 05; 44 blvd de la Villette, 19e; 8am-2am; Belleville
Very reminiscent of Belleville before all the changes, this successful bar-café has a lively, gritty, art-chic crowd and electro DJs Thursday to Saturday. An imaginative, colourful bar with its signature red lighting, infamous mojitos and caiparinhas and commitment to quality tunes, it’s become everyone’s chéri(e) (darling) and the first port of call on a night out in this part of town.
CHEZ PRUNE Map Bar, Café
01 42 41 30 47; 71 quai de Valmy, 10e; 8am-2am Mon-Sat, 10am-2am Sun; République
This Soho-boho café put Canal St-Martin on the map. It’s a classic Parisian bar-café, nicely rough around the edges, with good vibes – a terrace opposite the Canal St-Martin open in summer and a cosy atmosphere in winter. Brunch on Sundays (noon to 4pm) is popular.
L’ÎLE ENCHANTÉE Map Bar, Café
01 42 01 67 99; 65 blvd de la Villette, 19e; 8am-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat & Sun; Belleville