Paris_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Lonely Planet [207]
In a similar vein to Café Chéri(e), this ‘Enchanted Island’ in Belleville has become a popular stop-off for the before-clubbing crowd. With its colourful façade, huge windows and large, modern interior, it’s a relaxed restaurant and terrace by day that turns electric at nightfall from Thursday to Saturday, with quality DJs mixing most evenings.
CAFÉ LE PANIER Map Café
01 42 01 38 18; 32 place Ste-Marthe, 10e; 11am-2am Tue-Sun May-Sep, 4pm-2am Mon-Sat & 10am-2am Sun Oct-Apr; Belleville
Out in the western flanks of Belleville, it’s easy to miss the rue Ste-Marthe, filled with colourful restaurants and bars exerting a dilapidated, funky charm. At the top, literally and figuratively, is this splendid and convivial café, a bit of Marseille in Paris, with an enormous terrace on sheltered place Ste-Marthe. It’s brilliant for warm afternoons, casual meals (mains €9.50 to €16.50) and an extended apéritif.
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MÉNILMONTANT & BELLEVILLE
Rue Oberkampf is the essential hub of the Ménilmontant bar crawl, springing from a few cafés to being the epicentre of a vibrant, rapidly expanding bar scene. But as Oberkampf commercialises, the arty/edgy crowd has been moving steadily outwards, through cosmopolitan Belleville and towards La Villette (Click here).
AU PETIT GARAGE Map Bar
01 48 07 08 12; 63 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e; 6pm-2am; Parmentier.
Just about the last ‘neighbourhood’ bar in the quartier, the ‘Little Garage’ attracts local custom (think grease monkeys and others with cleaner hands) with its rock ’n’ roll, laid-back staff and rough-and-ready décor. Definitely worth a visit.
CANNIBALE CAFÉ Map Bar
01 49 29 95 59; 93 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; 8am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat & Sun; Couronnes
In fact ‘Cannibal Café’ couldn’t be more welcoming, with its grand rococo-style bar topped with worn zinc, decrepit mirrors, peeling mouldings, wood panelling, Formica tables and red leatherette bench seats. It’s a laid-back, almost frayed alternative to the groovy pubs and bars of rue Oberkampf and the perfect place to linger over a coffee or grab a quick beer at the bar. There’s an extensive menu with popular breakfasts (€9 to €12), and brunch (served between noon and 4pm on the weekend) is €18. Oh, and the name of this place isn’t suggesting that you bring condiments if you miss the mealtimes; it comes from a Dada manifesto and a painting by Goya.
LA CARAVANE Map Bar
01 49 23 01 86; 35 rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 11e; 11am-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat & Sun; Goncourt
This funky, animated bar is a little jewel tucked away between République and Oberkampf; look for the tiny campervan above the door. The bar is surrounded by colourful kitsch furnishings and the people around it and behind it are amiable and relaxed. The kitchen was into a rather odd hybrid cuisine – Thai noodles, Indian bhajis, chèvre chaud – the last time we looked. Stick with the reasonably priced drinks.
CAFÉ CHARBON Map Bar, Café
01 43 57 55 13; 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e; 9am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Parmentier
With its postindustrial belle époque ambience, the Charbon was the first of the hip cafés and bars to catch on in Ménilmontant. Now it’s somewhat of a victim of its own success, but it’s always crowded and worth heading to for the distressed décor with high ceilings, chandeliers and perched DJ booth. The food (mains €11 to €18) is good; it’s a popular spot for brunch between noon and 3pm on Sundays.
ON CHERCHE ENCORE Map Bar, Café
01 49 20 79 56; 2 rue des Goncourt, 11e; 11am-4pm Mon, to 2am Tue-Fri, noon-2am Sat; Goncourt
This relaxed, modern, loft-style bar-café with the less-than-inspired name of ‘We’re Still Looking’, is trying to do it all and succeeding. It’s committed to serving quality food and wines at reasonable prices; the Saturday brunch from noon to 4pm is one of the best around. It is also intent on providing quality tunes (electro, house and funk) from Thursday to Saturday, which leads to some quality mingling. The corner terrace is positioned for all-afternoon sun and is worth pouncing on.
AU CHAT