Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [103]
Eating
Don Fernando (21-5792; San Martín 1202; sandwiches & snacks S5-22) Located across from Restaurante Venezia in the suburb of San Isidro, this bakery and cafe offers innovative sandwich and snack options with the freshest ingredients.
El Paraidiso (22-8303; Loreto 178; menús S6; 8am-8pm Sun-Fri) Serves filling vegetarian meals for small change, as well as other plates featuring meat alternatives.
El Otro Peñoncito (23-3921; Bolívar 225; mains S9-26; 8am-midnight Mon-Fri) Ica’s most historic and characterful restaurant serves a varied menu of Peruvian and international fare that includes plenty of options for vegetarians. The formal bartenders here shake a mean pisco sour, too.
Anita (21-8582; Libertad 135; menús from S12, mains S15-36; 8am-midnight) Right smack on the Plaza de Armas, this elegant cafe dishes up heaping plates of regional Peruvian specialties, plus lip-smacking desserts.
Restaurant Venezia (21-0372; San Martín 1229; mains S12-29; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) In a new location about 2.5km south of the town center, Venezia is a popular family-run Italian restaurant. Allow plenty of time, as all plates are made fresh upon ordering.
Several shops in the streets east of the plaza sell tejas (caramel-wrapped candies flavored with fruits, nuts etc) including Helena (22-1844; Cajamarca 139).
Drinking
There’s not much happening in Ica outside of fiesta times, though nearby Huacachina has some friendly watering holes. On Ica’s Plaza de Armas, you’ll find several wine and pisco tasting rooms to pop into for a quick tipple. South of the plaza along Lima, local bars and clubs advertise live music, DJs and dancing. Two of the least seedy options include Pekados (Lima 225) and Barena (Lima s/n). The craziest late-night disco, called the Who, is situated on the north side of the Hotel de Turistas (Av de Los Maestros 500), 3km southwest of the plaza; it’s a S3 taxi ride.
Getting There & Away
Ica is a main destination for buses along Carr Panamericana Sur, so it’s easy to get to/from Lima or Nazca. Most of the bus companies are clustered in a high-crime area at the west end of Salaverry, and also Manzanilla west of Lambayeque.
For Lima (S20 to S55, 4½ hours), Soyuz (23-3312; Manzanilla 130) and Flores (21-2266; Manzanilla s/n) have departures every 15 minutes, while luxury services go a few times daily with Cruz del Sur (22-3333; Lambayeque 140) and Ormeño (21-5600; Lambayeque s/n). Many companies have daytime buses to Nazca (S10 to S35, 2½ hours), while services to Arequipa (S46 to S70, 12 hours) are mostly overnight.
To reach Pisco (S5 to S15, 1½ to two hours), Ormeño is the only major bus company that has direct buses from Ica. Both Cruz del Sur and Ormeño also have services into Paracas. Other bus companies drop passengers at the San Clemente turnoff on Carr Panamericana Sur, about 6km east of Pisco, where a variety of colectivos and minivans wait to shuttle passengers into town (S3, 10 minutes). Some faster, but slightly more expensive colectivos and combis heading for Pisco and Nazca leave when full from near the intersection of Lambayeque and Municipalidad in Ica.
Ormeño as well as some small companies may serve destinations around Peru’s central highlands, such as Ayacucho (S40, eight hours) and Huancavelica. Check the ever-changing schedules and fares in person at bus company offices.
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HUACACHINA
056 / pop 200
Just 5km west of Ica, this tiny oasis surrounded by towering sand dunes nestles next to a picturesque (if smelly) lagoon that is featured on the back of Peru’s S50 note. Graceful palm trees, exotic flowers and attractive antique buildings testify to the bygone glamour of this resort, which was once a playground for Peruvian elite. These days, it’s totally ruled by party-seeking crowds of international backpackers.
Dangers & Annoyances
Though safer than Ica, Huacachina is not a place to be lax about your personal safety or to forget to look after your property. Many