Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [104]
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TOP FIVE CHILL-OUT SPOTS ALONG PERU’S GRINGO TRAIL
Lunahuaná (Click here) Floating by rural vineyards on the Río Cañete, plus eating as much crawfish as you can manage.
Huacachina (below) Sandboarding down gigantic dunes all day long, then partying by the oasis till the break of dawn.
Cabanaconde (Click here) Trekking into one of the world’s deepest canyons and watching condors soar above.
Isla del Sol y de la Luna (Click here) Border-hopping to Bolivia on the shores of aquamarine Lake Titicaca.
Sacred Valley (Click here) Leaving behind the Machu Picchu crowds and exploring quaint indigenous towns, lively markets and more untrammeled Inca ruins.
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Activities
The lagoon’s murky waters supposedly have curative properties, though you may find swimming in the hotel pools more inviting.
You can rent sandboards for S5 an hour to slide, surf or ski your way down the irresistible dunes, getting sand lodged into bodily nooks and crannies. Though softer, warmer and safer than snowboarding, don’t be lulled into a false sense of security – several people have seriously injured themselves losing control of their sandboards. Many hotels offer thrill-rides in areneros (dune buggies). They then stop at the top of the soft slopes, from where you can sandboard down and be picked up at the bottom. We’ve received reports that some drivers take unnecessary risks, so ask around before choosing an operator. Make sure cameras are well protected, as sand can be damaging. The going rate for tours at the time of research was S45, but ask first if sandboard rental is included and how long the tour lasts. Tours do not include a fee of S3.60 that must be paid upon entering the dunes.
It is worth noting that seemingly nobody in Huacachina is worried about the possible effect that hordes of tourists and gas-guzzling vehicles could be having on the natural environment of the dunes. It is disconcerting to be in the middle of the desert and see plastic bottles and candy wrappers left by careless sandboarders; do your part to not leave waste, and don’t hesitate to raise the question of environmental degradation with hotels and tour operators.
Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Rocha (22-2256; kikerocha@hotmail.com; camping per person S5; ) This hostel next to the chapel Ica allows folks to pitch tents on the grassy back lawn and enjoy bathroom, pool and kitchen access.
Hostal Salvatierra (23-6132; Malecón de Huacachina s/n; r per person with cold-water shower from S15, per person with hot water S20; ) This budget guesthouse features corridor after corridor of spacious, bare-bones rooms right off the lagoon. The staff are very friendly, and maintain a low-key atmosphere. Guests also have the privilege of a free paddle-boat ride in the lagoon.
Casa de Arena (21-5274, 23-7398; www.casa-de-arena.com; Balneario de Huacachina; r per person with/without bathroom S40/30; ) The atmosphere at this perennially popular place is that of a constant pool party. The place is recently under new administration after having acquired a bad rap in the past. A bar in back stays open late into the night and options for tours and organized activities abound.
El Huacanicero Hotel (21-7435; www.elhuacachinero.com; Perotti s/n; dm/s/d/tr incl breakfast S30/100/110/140; ) A step up from other nearby backpackers’ haunts, this hotel has a tranquil outdoor pool area and restaurant that is open all day. Rooms are modern and well outfitted. There is also a 24-hour global ATM here.
Carola del Sur Lodge (21-5439; Perotti s/n; s/d/tr S45/60/75; ) The Carola del Sur is complete with a poolside bar, and ample green space occupied by hammocks and a roaming turtle.