Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [127]
Colonial Mansions
Some of Arequipa’s stately colonial sillar mansions can be visited – a real treat.
Built in 1730, Casa de Moral (21-4907; Moral 318; admission S5; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) is named after the 200-year-old mulberry tree in its central courtyard. Owned by BCP, the house is now one of the most accessible for snooping, and bilingual guides are available. It has a fascinating little map collection charting South American development.
Another mansion that’s easy to visit is Casa Ricketts (Casa Tristán del Pozo; 21-5060; San Francisco 108; admission free; 9:15am-12:45pm & 4:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-12:45pm Sat). Built in 1738, it has served as a seminary, archbishop’s palace, school, home to well-to-do families, and now as a working bank. Look for the puma-headed fountains in the interior courtyard.
Also worth a peek is the Casona Iriberry (Casa Arróspide; 20-4482; Santa Catalina 101; admission free; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri), housing the Universidad Nacional de San Agustín (UNSA) within its 18th-century colonial halls and patios.
The 17th-century La Mansión del Fundador (44-2460; admission S10; 9am-6pm), once owned by Arequipa’s founder Garcí Manuel de Carbajal, has been restored with original furnishings and paintings, and even has its own chapel. The mansion is in the village of Huasacache, 9km from Arequipa’s city center, most easily reached by taxi (round-trip S20). Local city tours occasionally stop here.
Other Churches
Visiting hours for smaller churches in Arequipa are erratic, but most are open for worship from 7am to 9am and 5pm to 8pm. Originally built in the 16th century, Iglesia de San Francisco (22-3048; Zela cuadra 1; admission S5; church & convent 9am-12:30pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri) has been badly damaged by several earthquakes. It still stands, however, and visitors can see a large crack in the cupola – testimony to the power of quakes. Other colonial churches around the city center include San Agustín, La Merced and Santo Domingo.
Other Museums
The university-run Museo Arqueológico de la Universidad Católica de Santa María (22-1083; Cruz Verde 303; voluntary donation; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has interesting little displays on local excavation sites, as well as some artifacts, including surprisingly well-preserved ancient ceramics. Guided tours are available in Spanish and English; tips are expected.
Opened in 2008, the Museo Arqueológico Chiribaya (28-6528; www.museochiribaya.org; La Merced 117; admission S15; 8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sun) houses an impressive collection of artifacts from the pre-Incan Chiribaya civilization, including well-preserved textiles and the only pre-Inca gold collection in southern Peru. The museum is housed in a beautiful colonial mansion that features design details by French engineer Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame. University student guides offer 40-minute tours in Spanish, English, Portuguese, French, Italian and German when prearranged.
El Molino de Sabandía
The rural suburb of Paucarpata, about 8km southeast of the city center, makes a pleasant country escape. Combis (minibuses) can be caught along Goyeneche, Independencia and Paucarpata, which is the eastern continuation of Mercaderes (S0.70, 25 minutes), or you can take a taxi (round-trip S10). En route you can observe how the ancient Inca terracing that covers the hillsides surrounding Arequipa is slowly being consumed by the city’s expansion. Paucarpata itself features an attractive colonial church on the main plaza and several good picanterías (local restaurants).
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DETOUR: YANAHUARA & CAYMA
The peaceful neighborhood of Yanahuara makes a diverting excursion from the Arequipa city center. It’s within walking distance: go west on Av Puente Grau over the Puente Grau (Grau Bridge) and continue on Av Ejército for half a dozen blocks. Turn right on Av Lima and walk five blocks to a small plaza, where you’ll find the Iglesia