Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [128]
Head back along Av Jerusalén, parallel to Av Lima, and just before reaching Av Ejército you’ll see the well-known restaurant Sol de Mayo (see boxed text, Click here), where you can stop for a tasty lunch of typical arequipeño food. The round-trip walk should take around two hours, but there are also combis (minibuses) to Yanahuara from along Av Puente Grau (and returning from Yanahuara’s plaza to the city) every few minutes to speed you along (S1, 10 minutes).
Beyond Yanahuara is Cayma, another inner suburb of Arequipa’s city center, nicknamed El Balcón (the Balcony) for its privileged views. Here you’ll also find the eye-catching Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel (admission free), dating from 1730. For a tip, the church warden may take you up the small tower, which has panoramic views. To reach Cayma from Yanahuara, walk along San Vicente and then take Av León Velarde, or catch one of the regular combis marked ‘Cayma’ from Av Puente Grau (S1, 15 minutes).
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A 3km walk from the plaza brings you to El Molino de Sabandía (adult/child S5/3; 9am-5pm). This mill was built in 1785, fell into disrepair and was restored two centuries later; it now grinds once more for visitors. The neat grounds, shaded with weeping willows and providing great views of El Misti, are a favorite of picnickers. Horseback rides are available outside the restaurant (S20 per hour).
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ACTIVITIES
Trekking, mountaineering and rafting trips are offered everywhere in central Arequipa. The most reliable way to find a guide is to go through a reputable agency, as informal tour operators and guides offering less-than-top-notch service abound. Mountain guides should be able to show you their Association of Mountain Guides of Peru certification, as well as a little book with a registry of all the climbs they have led. Because the very best guides are often away on trips, try to make arrangements in advance. Of course, no travel agency or guide can ever be 100% recommended, so check everything exhaustively before shelling out for any trip. The following outdoor outfitters can usually put you in touch with reliable guides:
Carlos Zárate Adventures (20-2461; www.zarateadventures.com; Santa Catalina 204) This company was founded in 1954 by Carlos Zárate, the great-grandfather of climbing in Arequipa. His son, Carlos Zárate Flores, is also an experienced guide. Guides generally speak Spanish or English, but are available in French when prearranged. The company offers all manner of treks and climbs all the local peaks. Prices vary depending on group size and method of transportation; they charge around S150 per person for a group of four to climb El Misti, and S365 for a three-day trek in the Cañón del Colca with private transport. They also rent all kinds of gear to independent climbers and hikers including ice axes, crampons and hiking boots.
Colca Trek (20-6217, 9-60-0170; www.colcatrek.com.pe; Jerusalén 401-B) Colca Trek is an ecoconscious adventure-tour agency and shop run by the knowledgeable, English-speaking Vlado Soto. In addition to trekking tours, it organizes mountaineering, mountain-biking and river-running trips; and it is one of the few shops selling decent topographical maps of the area. It is a venerable source of information for those hoping to explore the area on their own. Be careful of copycat travel agencies that use the Colca Trek name and/or web addresses that are similar to the agency’s official site.
Naturaleza Activa (69-5793; naturactiva@yahoo.com; Santa Catalina 211) A favorite of those seeking adventure tours, and offering a full range of trekking, climbing and mountain-biking options. One popular tour is a three- to four-hour bike trip down El Misti (US$45)