Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [129]
Pablo Tour (20-3737; www.pablotour.com; Jerusalén 400 AB-1) Consistently recommended by readers, Pablo Tour’s guides are experts in trekking and cultural tours in the region, and can furnish trekkers with all the necessary equipment and topographical maps. They are happy to customize tours depending on clients’ needs or offer professional advice to those hoping to go it alone. The owner, Edwin, speaks English and French. Can also help travelers communicate with the Hostal Valle del Fuego in Cabanaconde (Click here), or Oasis Bungalows (Click here) at the base of the Cañón del Colca.
Mountaineering
Superb mountains for climbing surround Arequipa. Adequate acclimatization for this area is essential and it’s best to have spent some time in Cuzco or Puno immediately before a high-altitude expedition. Climbers must carry all the water they will need during climbs for all mountains except for Nevado Coropuna, where freshwater springs can be found along the way. Cold temperatures, which sometimes drop to -29ºC at the highest camps, necessitate very warm clothing. The best months for mountain climbing are between April and December.
Though many climbs in the area are not technically difficult, they should never be undertaken lightly. Watch for the symptoms of altitude sickness and if in doubt, go back down. The Association of Mountain Guides of Peru warns that many guides are uncertified and untrained, so climbers are advised to go well informed about medical and wilderness-survival issues.
Maps of the area can be obtained from Colca Trek (20-6217, 9-60-0170; www.colcatrek.com.pe; Jerusalén 401-B) in Arequipa or the Instituto Geográfico Nacional (Click here) and South American Explorers Club (see boxed text, Click here) in Lima. Carlos Zárate Adventures (20-2461; www.zarateadventures.com; Santa Catalina 204) and Peru Camping Shop (22-1658; www.perucampingshop.com; Jerusalén 410) rent tents, ice axes, crampons, stoves and boots. Most agencies sell climbs as packages that include transport, so prices vary widely depending on the size of the group and the mountain, but the current cost for a guide alone is around US$70 per day.
EL MISTI
Looming 5822m above Arequipa, the city’s guardian volcano El Misti is the most popular climb in the area. It is technically one of the easiest ascents of any mountain of this size in the world, but it’s hard work nonetheless and you normally need an ice ax and, sometimes, crampons. Hiring a guide is highly recommended. A two-day trip will usually cost between US$50 to US$70 per person. The mountain is best climbed from July to November, with the later months being the least cold. Below the summit is a sulfurous yellow crater with volcanic fumaroles hissing gas, and there are spectacular views down to the Laguna de Salinas and back to the city.
The ascent can be approached by many routes, some more worn-in than others, most of which can be done in two days. The Apurímac route is notorious for robberies. One popular route starts from Chiguata, and begins with a hard eight-hour slog uphill to reach base camp (4500m); from there to the summit and back takes eight hours, while the sliding return from base camp to Chiguata takes three hours or less. The Aguada Blanca route is restricted to a handful of official tour operators and allows climbers to arrive at 4100m before beginning to climb.
Determined climbers can reach the Chiguata route via public transport. Buses going to Chiguata leave from Av Sepulveda in Arequipa (S7 one way, one hour) hourly beginning at 5:30am and will drop you off at an unmarked trailhead, from where you can begin the long trek to base camp. On the return trip, you should be able to flag down the same bus heading the opposite way. The more common method to reach the mountain is hiring a 4WD vehicle for around S200 that will take you up to 3300m and pick you up on the return.
OTHER MOUNTAINS
One of the easiest 6000m