Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [130]
Sabancaya (5976m) is part of a massif on the south rim of the Cañón del Colca that also includes extinct Hualca Hualca (6025m) and Nevado Ampato (6310m). Sabancaya has erupted in recent years, and should only be approached with a guide who understands the geologic activity of the area; neighboring Ampato is a fairly straightforward, if strenuous, three-day ascent, and you get safer views of the active Sabancaya from here.
Other mountains of interest near Arequipa include Ubinas (5675m), which used to be the easiest mountain to summit but is currently spewing enough toxic ash that it is not recommended for climbing. Nevado Mismi (5597m) is a fairly easy three- or four-day climb on the north side of the Cañón del Colca. You can approach it on public transportation and, with a guide, find the lake that is reputedly the source of the Amazon. The highest mountain in southern Peru is the difficult Nevado Coropuna (6613m).
Trekking
The spectacular canyons around Arequipa offer many excellent hiking options. Trekking agencies can arrange a whole array of off-the-beaten-track routes to suit your timeline and fitness level. Although you can trek year-round, the best (ie driest) time is from May to November. There is more danger of rockfalls in the canyons during the wet season (between December and April). Easier treks in the Cañón del Colca can be beautifully lush during the wet season, however, while more remote trails, especially those in the Cañón del Cotahuasi, become inaccessible.
Our best advice is that if you’re already an experienced trekker and you’re trekking in a well-traveled area like the Cañón del Colca, you don’t need to go with a guide at all. Hiking from village to village or doing the ever-popular trek from the canyon’s rim to Sangalle (also popularly called ‘the oasis’) are the simplest DIY trekking options. In the Cañón del Colca region, the main roads are scenic routes. The roads are a good, easy way to experience village life at a slower pace, although they are dusty and passing traffic can be unnerving.
If you’re nervous about hiking solo or want to tackle more untrammeled routes, there are dozens of tour companies based in Arequipa that can arrange guided treks. Expect to pay more when booking a trek before arriving in Arequipa.
For indispensable topographic maps for trekking, as well as top-notch guided trips (including of the Cañón del Cotahuasi), contact Colca Trek (20-6217, 9-60-0170; www.colcatrek.com.pe; Jerusalén 401-B).
River Running
Arequipa is one of Peru’s premier bases for river running and kayaking. Many trips are unavailable during the rainy season (between December and March), when water levels can be dangerously high. For more information and advice, surf www.peruwhitewater.com.
The Río Chili, about 7km from Arequipa, is the most frequently run local river, with a half-day trip suitable for beginners leaving almost daily from April to November (from US$25). Further afield, you can also do relatively easy trips on the Río Majes, into which the Río Colca flows. The most commonly run stretches pass class II and III rapids.
A more off-the-beaten-track possibility is the remote Río Cotahuasi, a white-water adventure – not for the fainthearted – that reaches into the deepest sections of what is perhaps the world’s deepest known canyon. Expeditions here are infrequent and only for the experienced, usually taking nine days and passing through class IV and V rapids. The Río Colca was first run back in 1981, but this is a dangerous, difficult trip, not to be undertaken lightly. A few outfitters will do infrequent