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this gay-friendly B&B offers more than half a dozen guest rooms with fine design touches such as richly painted walls, pedestal sinks, antique handmade furnishings and alpaca wool blankets. A sociable cocktail bar is in the lobby.

Also recommended:

Posada Nueva España (25-2941; Antiquilla 106, Yanahuara; s/d/tr with breakfast S75/100/125; ) This distinguished 19th-century colonial house has just more than a dozen rooms with solar hot showers. It’s in the quaint suburb of Yanahuara; call for free pickups. Spanish, French, German and English are spoken.

La Maison d’Elise (25-6185, 25-3343; www.aqplink.com/hotel/maison; Av Bolognesi 104; s/d/tr US$54/70/86, ste $78-96; ) An elegant colonial mansion retreat just north of the Puente Grau bridge. Rooms have telephones, fridges and cable TV.

Top End

There’s no shortage of full-service hotels in Peru’s second-largest city.

La Posada del Puente (25-3132; www.posadadelpuente.com; Bolognesi 101; s/d US$85/105, ste US$155-190; ) Dipping down to the river, the extensive gardens of this high-end hotel make for a tranquil setting that’s surprisingly removed from the bustling traffic above. Staying here gives you free access to the sports facilities and swimming pool at the nearby Club Internacional sports complex.

Sonesta Posada del Inca (21-5530; www.sonesta.com; Portal de Flores 116; s/d/tr with breakfast from US$119/126/140, ste from $140; ) On the Plaza de Armas, this hotel has some rooms at the front with private terraces and a view of the cathedral through the arches. Other guests can compensate by frequenting the rooftop pool and terrace, which also boasts a fine panorama of the plaza, although the cafe is disappointing.

Libertador Ciudad Blanca (21-5110; www.libertador.com.pe; Plaza Bolívar s/n, Selva Alegre; r US$150-210, ste US$170-280; ) This is the grand dame of Arequipa’s hotels, situated 1km north of the center. The stylish building is nicely set in gardens with a pool and playground. It has spacious rooms and opulent public areas with wi-fi access, plus its spa boasts a sauna, Jacuzzi and fitness room. The sedate restaurant serves a fine Sunday brunch. Neighboring Selva Alegre park is beautiful, but don’t wander too far from the crowds, and avoid it after dark.


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EATING

Trendy upscale restaurants line Calle San Francisco north of the Plaza de Armas, while touristy outdoor cafes huddle together on Pasaje Catedral behind the cathedral.

Budget

Café Casa Verde (22-6376; Jerusalén 406; snacks S2-6; 8am-6pm) This nonprofit courtyard cafe staffed by underprivileged kids is the perfect spot for a morning or afternoon break. It dishes up yummy German-style pastries and sandwiches, though service can be slow. Attached is a local handicraft store where proceeds also go to helping kids in need.

La Canasta Baguetería (20-4025; Jerusalén 115; sandwiches & salads S3-10; 8:30am-8pm Mon-Sat) This French-style bakery serves up flaky pastries, as well as a solid selection of sandwiches, salads and hearty breakfasts. You might have to search a bit as it’s situated at the back of a colonial-style courtyard.

Lakshmivan (22-8768; Jerusalén 400; menús S4-6; 9am-9pm) Set in a colorful old building with a tiny outdoor courtyard, this place has various menús (set meals) and an extensive à la carte selection, all with a South Asian flair.

Restaurante Gopal (21-2193; Melgar 101B; menús S5, mains S4-11; 8am-9pm) This basic, health-conscious vegetarian cafe specializes in traditional Peruvian dishes made with imitation meats, so you can enjoy lomo saltado (strips of beef stir-fried with onions, tomatoes, potatoes and chili) meat-free.

Cusco Coffee Company (28-1152; La Merced 135; drinks S5-11; 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun) This Starbucks-style Peruvian coffee shop has the most chatty baristas in town selling sugary baked goods and a full menu of espresso drinks made from beans ground on the spot. There is also a wi-fi hot spot here.

Ribs Cafe (28-8188; Álvarez Thomas 107; ribs & empanadas S5-18; 8am-6pm) This surprising storefront cooks up BBQ ribs in

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