Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [136]
Fez (20-5930; San Francisco 229; mains S6-11; 7:30am-11pm) Have you been craving authentic falafel ever since you landed in South America? Step up to the counter here and order yourself a sandwich dripping with juicy goodness. Crêpes are equally delicious. Garden tables are out back.
El Turko I (20-3862; www.elturko.com.pe; San Francisco 216; mains S6-14; 7am-midnight Sun-Wed, 24hr Thu-Sat) Part of an ever-expanding Ottoman empire, this funky little joint serves a hungry crowd late-night kebabs and vegetarian Middle Eastern salads, with excellent coffee and sweet pastries during the day.
Crepisimo (20-6620; Alianza Francesa, Santa Catalina 208; mains S6-16; 8am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun) Yet another cozy place to get your caffeine fix, this cultural cafe has a crackling fireplace, balcony tables, board games and more than 100 kinds of sweet and savory crêpes filled with everything from Chilean smoked trout or wild Swiss mushrooms to exotic South American fruits.
Inkari Pub Pizzeria (Pasaje Catedral; 8am-midnight) This pizzeria has a delicious happy-hour special of a personal pizza and a copa de vino (glass of wine) for just S13.
Velluto Crepes (28-7423; Jerusalén 408; sandwiches & crêpes S6-26; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat) This newcomer to Calle Jerusalén has a twin operation in Cuzco. Sandwiches are substantial, soups are made from fresh ingredients, and crêpes are a twist on the traditional. Additionally, the place boasts a selection of imported beers and wines not available at many places in Peru.
SELF-CATERING
Pick up groceries at El Super (9am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 9:30am-1:30pm Sun); Plaza de Armas (Portal de la Municipalidad 130); Piérola (N de Piérola, cuadra 1).
Midrange
Los Leños (28-9179; Jerusalén 407; pizzas S9-20; 4:30-11pm Mon-Sat) Pizzas for homesick travelers are baked in a wood-burning oven that adds warmth to the laid-back atmosphere. Rock music is the only soundtrack. If you’re more impressed by the food than we were, add your personalized scribble to the already-covered-with-graffiti walls.
Manolo’s (21-9009; Mercaderes 113; mains S10-30; 7:30am-midnight) With a decidedly retro atmosphere, this mirror-filled cafe looks as if it were established in the early days of the Republic. Its endless menu lists coffees, ice creams, desserts, sandwiches and full Peruvian home-style meals.
Restaurant on the Top (28-1787; Portal de Flores 102; mains S14-32; 11am-10pm) It’s a hike up the stairs to this rooftop eatery, but well worth the view of the Plaza de Armas and mountains beyond. An enormous menu features everything from sandwiches to Alpaca steaks. The same menu is served at Cafe Restaurant Antojitos de Arequipa (Moran cuadra 1), around the corner from Restaurant at the Top; open 24 hours.
Mixtos (20-5343; Pasaje Catedral 115; mains S15-36; 11:30am-9:30pm) Tucked away in the alley behind the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas is this popular and quaint restaurant that serves mainly Italian and criollo (spicy Peruvian fare with Spanish and indigenous influences) seafood dishes. Try the enormous and flavorful sudado de pescado (fish stew) while enjoying the view from the outdoor balcony.
Paquita Siu (25-1915; Granada 102, Cayma; mains S18-37; noon-4pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) Worth going out of your way for, this Asian fusion restaurant specializes in hard-to-find Thai and Japanese favorites like pad thai and sushi. It lies directly behind the department store Saga Falabella on Av Ejército.
El Turko II (21-5729; www.elturko.com.pe; San Francisco 315; mains S18-38; 11:30am-midnight) Right in the thick of things on San Francisco, the brother of El Turko I is a highly recommended Middle Eastern restaurant. Sizzling platters of kebabs and other carnivorous and vegetarian specialties are served in elegant surroundings with well-polished service. The drink list includes all the trusted favorites as well as a selection of specialty piscos.