Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [137]
Cevichería Fory Fay (24-5454; Álvarez Thomas 221; mains S20-25; lunch) Small and to-the-point, it serves only the best ceviche (seafood marinated in lime juice) and nothing else. Pull up a chair at a rickety table and crack open a beer – limit one per person, though! By the way, the name is a phonetic spelling of how Peruvians say ‘45’ in English.
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THE SPICE OF LIFE, AREQUIPEÑO STYLE
The best picanterías (local restaurants) for traditional regional food are outside Arequipa’s city center, and most are open for lunch only. Try tasting the explosively spicy rocoto relleno (hot peppers stuffed with meat, rice and vegetables), ocopa (potatoes served with a spicy, creamy peanut sauce), chupe de camarones (shrimp chowder topped with cheese) or chancho al horno (roast suckling pig), and wash it down with chicha (fermented corn beer).
Ary Quepay (20-4583; Jerusalén 502; mains S12-26; 10:30am-10:30pm) This place offers traditional plates, including alpaca and cuy (guinea pig), in a colonial-style building that extends out to a dimly lit rustic area dripping with plants. There’s enthusiastic música folklórica (Andean folk music) most evenings.
La Nueva Palomino (25-3500; Leoncio Prado 122; mains S14-29; lunch only) Definitely the local favourite, the atmosphere at this picantería is informal and can turn boisterous even during the week when groups of families and friends file in to eat local specialties and drink copious amounts of chicha de jora.
Los Guisos Arequipeños (46-5151; www.guisosarequipenos.com; Av Pizarro 111; mains S12-36; noon-6:30pm Mon-Thu, noon-9pm Fri-Sun) This huge, barnlike formal restaurant is in the suburb of Lambramani, 2km southeast of the center. Along with bow-tied waiters, it has bountiful gardens and occasional live music.
Sol de Mayo (25-4148; www.restaurantsoldemayo.com; Jerusalén 207, Yanahuara; menú S14, mains S18-47; 11:30am-6pm) Serving good Peruvian food in the Yanahuara district, Sol de Mayo has live música folklórica every afternoon from 1pm to 4pm. Book a table in advance. You can combine a visit here with a stop off at the mirador (lookout) in Yanahuara (see boxed text, Click here).
Tradición Arequipeña (42-6467; www.tradicionarequipena.com; Av Dolores 111; meals S18-40; 11:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11:30-1am Sat, 8:30am-6pm Sun) This locally famous restaurant has mazelike gardens, live folklórica and criollo music (upbeat coastal music), and offers a Sunday morning breakfast of adobo de cerdo, a traditional slow-cooked pork dish. It’s 2km southeast of the center; a taxi ride here should cost S4.
For dinner shows with live traditional music, Click here.
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Nina-Yaku (28-1432; San Francisco 211; menús S35, mains S25-36; 3-11pm) This nouveau Peruvian eatery wouldn’t look a bit out of place in NYC’s Soho or Buenos Aires’ Palermo Hollywood. The modern menu includes reinventions of traditional arequipeño tastes, with salads, sandwiches and tastebud-tingling desserts, plus coffees and cocktails.
Top End
La Trattoria del Monasterio (20-4062; Santa Catalina 309; mains S18-33; lunch from noon daily, dinner from 7pm Mon-Sat) A helping of epicurean delight has descended upon the Monasterio de Santa Catalina. The menu of Italian specialties was created with the help of superstar Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, and is infused with the flavors of Arequipa. Reservations are essential.
Sambambaia’s (24-1209; www.sambambaias.com.pe; Luna Pizarro 304, Vallecito; mains S19-35; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Located just 2km outside of the city center, this restaurant is an elegant upper-crust alternative with both Italian and Peruvian specialties and live music on the weekends in a tropical garden setting.
El Viñedo (20-5053; www.vinedogrill.com; San Francisco 319; mains S20-50; noon-midnight) This intimate spot is one of the best places to knock back a steak or platters of traditional Peruvian food, all in an ornate Victorian atmosphere. The wine list features South American varietals.
Chicha (28-7360; Santa Catalina 210; mains S25-39; noon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 9pm