Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [144]
From the plaza, a 30-minute walk down to the river brings you to a local hot springs called Baños Chacapi (admission S5; 3am-7pm). In Yanque, a number of simple, family-run guesthouses were started as part of a local development project; they are scattered around town, and offer lodging for S15 per night. Travelers have recommended Sumaq Huayta Wasi (83-2174; Cusco 303), just two blocks from the main plaza. Out on the main road, you’ll find the delightful Tradición Colca Albergue (42-4926, 20-5336; www.tradicioncolca.com; Av Colca 119; dm/s/d with breakfast S35/120/140), a European-run country inn designed to help guests relax away from the bustle of the city. It offers a sauna and Jacuzzi, massage services, and a restaurant and cafe and bar with a billiards table. Rates include an afternoon guided hike to the pre-Inca ruins of Oyu Oyu.
CORPORAQUE TO MADRIGAL
Across the river from Yanque, in the village of Corporaque, is the excellent La Casa de Mamayacchi (www.lacasademamayacchi.com; d/tr with breakfast from S224/294). Hidden away downhill from the main plaza, this inn is built with traditional materials and boasts awesome canyon views. The cozy rooms have no TVs, but there’s a games library, fireplace and bar that make it sociable. Make advance reservations through the Arequipa office (24-1206; Jerusalén 606). Or, for a more authentic bare-bones option, ask around for the family-run guesthouse Mumy Kkero (per night S15), one of many in Corporaque.
Walking or riding from Yanque to Corporaque you will pass a sign marking the ruins of Oyu Oyu. Though not visible from the road, the remnants of this pre-Incan settlement are reachable by a half-hour hike up the hill, after which you can continue on to a waterfall whose source is the runoff from Nevado Mismi.
Further up the northern side of the canyon is the upmarket Colca Lodge (53-1191; www.colca-lodge.com; s/d/tr/q with breakfast S596/660/660/724, ste from S937), a large and attractive stone-and-thatch hotel tucked into a bend of the river amid Inca terracing. Activities including horseback riding, fishing, rafting and mountain biking can be arranged here. The establishment features a new spa and its own private hot springs. For advance reservations, visit the Arequipa office (054-20-2587, 054-20-3604; Benavides 201).
YANQUE TO PINCHOLLO
Further along the main road on the south side of the canyon, the spreading landscape is remarkable for its Inca and pre-Inca terracing, which goes on for many kilometers and is some of the most extensive in Peru. Some tours also stop at a small carved boulder that is supposed to represent a pre-Columbian map of the terracing.
The next big village along the main road is Pinchollo, about 30km from Chivay. From here, a trail climbs toward Hualca Hualca (a snowcapped volcano of 6025m) to an active geothermal area set amid wild and interesting scenery. Though it’s not very clearly marked, there’s a four-hour trail up to a bubbling geyser that used to erupt dramatically before a recent earthquake contained it. Ask around for directions, or just head left uphill in the direction of the mountain, then follow the water channel to its end. In Pinchollo, there is the very basic El Refugio (dm S10) near the plaza, and the owner is also a local guide. A sleeping bag and flashlight are recommended.
CRUZ DEL CÓNDOR
You can continue on foot from Pinchollo to Cruz del Cóndor (admission with boleto turístico) in about two hours or flag down any passing bus headed toward Cabanaconde. This famed viewpoint, also known locally as Chaq’lla, is for many the highlight of their trip to the Cañón del Colca. A large family of Andean condors nests by the