Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [145]
Recently it has become more difficult to see the condors, mostly due to air pollution, including from travelers’ campfires and tour buses. Early morning (8am to 10am) or late afternoon (4pm to 6pm) are still the best times to see the birds, though they can appear at various hours during the day. The condors are less likely to appear on rainy days so it’s best to visit during the dry season. You can walk from the viewpoint to Cabanaconde, 18km past Pinchollo and almost 50km from Chivay.
Cabanaconde
054 / pop 2700 / elev 3290m
The quiet rural town of Cabanaconde makes an ideal base for some spectacular hikes into the canyon. It’s a very small place, with just a few simple spots to stay and eat. Bring everything you’ll need to stay a couple of days, including plenty of Peruvian currency in small bills and any trekking equipment (eg sleeping bags).
ACTIVITIES
The most popular short trek is one that involves a steep two-hour hike down to Sangalle (also popularly known as ‘the oasis’) at the bottom of the canyon, where several sets of basic bungalows and camping grounds have sprung up, all costing from about S10 per person. There are two natural pools for swimming, the larger of which is claimed by Oasis Bungalows, which charges S5 (free if you are staying in its bungalows) to swim. Paraíso Bungalows doesn’t charge for the smaller swimming pool, and there is a local dispute over whether travelers should be charged to use the pools at all. Do not light campfires as almost half of the trees in the area have been destroyed in this manner, and cart all trash not just back to the top of the canyon, but all the way back to Arequipa (those garbage cans you see lying about are not emptied properly and many businesses in Cabanaconde throw their trash into the canyon). The return trek to Cabanaconde is a stiff climb and thirsty work; allow about three to four hours.
The charming village of Tapay is a destination in itself and is also a base camp for other shorter treks, including to Bomboya. Readers have recommended camping or staying overnight at Hostal Isidro, whose owner is a guide and has a shop, satellite phone and rental mules. Another popular trekking route leads into the canyon via a more gradual path (but steep nonetheless!) and crosses the river before arriving in San Juan de Chuccho. Here, accommodation is available at the Casa de Rivelino, where there are bungalows with warm water for S10 per night and a simple restaurant. From here, trekkers have the option of continuing on to Sangalle to stay a second night before returning to Cabanaconde.
Local guides, guesthouse owners and other travelers can suggest a wealth of other day hikes and longer treks to miradors, Inca ruins, waterfalls and geysers. You can buy topographic and trekking maps and rent gear from Colca Trek (054-20-6217, 9-60-0170; www.colcatrek.com.pe; Jerusalén 401-B) in Arequipa. Though it is possible to buy water in the canyon, you are encouraged to bring the water you will need to avoid additional waste from disposable plastic bottles.
TOURS & GUIDES
Local guides can also be hired by consulting with your hostel or the municipalidad in Cabanaconde. The going rate for guides is S30 to S60 per day, depending on the type of trek, season and size of the group. Renting a horse or mule, which is an excellent way to carry water into the canyon and waste out, can be arranged easily for about S60 per day.
SLEEPING & EATING
Accommodation options are extremely limited in Cabanaconde. Most people eat where they’re sleeping, although there are a couple of cheap local restaurants near the main plaza, too.
Pachamama Backpacker Hostal (9-59-316-322, 25-3879; www.pachamamahome.com; San Pedro 209; dm S12, r